

| Subject: | Re: OT Drilling out a bolt. Expertise solicited. |
| From: | developtrust |
| Date: | Sat, 18 Sep 2004 11:38:38 -0700 |
When I have soak a bolt in liquid wrench and taken the time to properly center punch it I have had success. When I try to cut corners and not do a proper job the drilling out of the bolt always fails to get done properly leading to more problems. Take the time to do it properly. > Like I said...Best left to the Experts !!! :) > JC... > > In a message dated 9/18/2004 10:03:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > donalds1@VERIZON.NET writes: > JB and fellow knuckle busters > there are 2 approaches to this one would be to just drill the head off the > bolt and remove the link and then try to turn the remainder of the bolt > with > the help of the blue wrench (torch) and a good vise grips or core the > entire > bolt and hope to remove the remains with a chisel. Easy outs might work on > new parts but in the real work of rust that trick never works > To drill out a broken bolt I grind the end flat and start with a 1/8 th > inch > drill bit after marking the center of the bolt with a punch. Snap on tools > sells a great little double ended 1/8 th inch bit that has saved me many > hours of grief and go up in drill size as needed . The hard part of coring > out a bolt is to get the remains out of the hole without taking out the > good > threads. To prevent damage to the threads I have found that the center > punch > to mark the starting point of the drilling is the first thing to get right > and staying on center is next. I use a slow drill speed or the off and on > the trigger method to keep the bit speed down so as not to overheat the > drill bit end. The next important tool is a good quality punch I use a > Snap > On 7/32 part # PPC107 LA straight shank 3.5 inch shank length punch. This > comes with a flat contact surface that I have ground to a 70 or so degree > angle without overheating and weaking the punch. Once the bolt is cored > and > the thin wall and threads are all that remain I use the punch to collapse > the wall and threads in on themselves this can be much harder to do if the > hole is blind. This can take out a little bit of thread so you want to use > caution and focus on the collapsed part of the bolt. If you decide then > the > cored bolt is out that not enough thread remains ( That's NEVER happened > to > me ) then I like Heli Coils brand thread repair rather than other types of > inserts except for drain plug repairs but that's another story > > PS I own more Heli coil kits than the tool salesman > > Going faster miles an hour with my new radio on > I remain > Boston Bob >
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