Ah, thankee.

I have determined that it wasn't the coil at fault, nor the ignition
control unit.  Nor the distributor cap, or the idle control unit.

The problem?  Evidently something got a little out of whack inside the
distributor... and the plastic holders for the metal tabs for the hall
effect sensor shattered.

Yay, $150 for a new distributor.

Thanks for the help!

-Kyle

On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 23:03:16 -0400, Daniel L. Katz <katzd54@yahoo.com> wrote:
> kyle:
>
> an ohm meter can be used to check the primary and seconsdary resistances,
> as per bently, and the highest range can be used to check for a low grade
> short to ground through the case.
>
> a voltmeter can be used in place of the test light.
>
> for most purposes, an inexpensive analog multi-meter is the most useful
> for this type of work. the swing of the needle is a big advantage over
> digital unless very precise measurments are needed.
>
> as i mentioned, it is rare for a coil to fail, although it does happen,
> and sometimers the failure is intermittent due to thermal expansion.
>
> dan
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 18:17:21 -0500, Aerowolf <aerowolf@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
> >I just re-read this, and I realized... there's a mention of "test coil
> >without a meter".
> >
> >What do you do to test the coil WITH a meter?  What meter?  Does it
> >have to be analog or digital or something else?
> >
> >-Kyle
> >
> >
> >On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 19:26:51 -0400, Daniel L. Katz <katzd54@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> >> kyle:
> >>
> >> a bad coil is truly rare.
> >>
> >> first get an old spark plug and break off the side electrode to make a
> >> tester. then pull off one spark plug wire at the plug and insert tester,
> >> with the center electrode a few mm from a convenient ground (engine or
> >> body). have an assistant crank and look for a spark. if no spark, pull
> off
> >> coil wire at distributor and again crank and look for a spark a few mm
> to
> >> ground. if no spark, and assuming coil wire is ok, then go on to the
> coil.
> >> your test light should have a wire with an allegator clip, which you
> clip
> >> to any clean unpainted ground (body or engine) to complete the circuit.
> >> with an assistant cranking, test light should turn on more or less
> steady
> >> when touching coil (+); if not, no voltage at coil (+), which has
> nothing
> >> to do with the coil. assuming voltage at coil (+), light should flicker
> >> when touching coil (-) while cranking; if no light, coil primary is open
> >> (bad coil); if steady light, other ignition parts at fault. while
> >> cranking, voltage at coil (-) normally spikes to about -300 V, which
> will
> >> really bite if you close the circuit with your body. if tests at coil
> +/-
> >> check out ok, then, since no spark, coil secondary probably shorted (bad
> >> coil).
> >>
> >> it is hard on ignition module to make spark jump more than a few mm, or
> >> worse, leave high tension side open, so either re-attach plug and coil
> >> wires or ground them once you've tested for a spark.
> >>
> >> it is possible to have spark voltage on coil wire but no spark at plug
> >> because of moisture inside cap.
> >>
> >> this is pretty brief, but outlines what to do to test coil without a
> >> meter.
> >>
> >> as i said, almost all coil replacements are unnecessary - due to a
> >> mistaken diagnosis, or just plain wrong guessing.
> >>
> >> dan
>