----- Original Message -----
From: "bpbuyers" <bpbuyers@tds.net>
To: "Vince S" <gipsyflies@COMCAST.NET>; <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2004 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: Re: LED solder gauge

> A note to all:
> when you use rosin (or any other core filled) solder, you should always
> "crimp" the ends to prevent the rosin from falling out of the solder.
>
> Many times while helping others solder a board I've had to "melt back" the
> solder until I found rosin in the center/core. Thus, explaining why they
> were unable to get the solder to flow and a proper connection.
>
> Paul
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Vince S" <gipsyflies@COMCAST.NET>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 12:00 AM
> Subject: Re: LED solder gauge
>
>
> > Mike,
> >
> > As others has mentioned, the wattage and tip size is determined by the
> > job on hand. That is the heat dissipation and thermal mass of the
> > component(s) and the circuit board (or wire etc) in question. Too low of
> > a wattage or too high a wattage are equally bad. I personally prefer a
> > slight hotter iron/tip because I can heat it up very fast. This way I
> > can minimize the dwell time thus least chance of lifting the trace. Good
> > soldering take a lot of practice. A common poor soldering is oxidizing
> > the solder. The rosin is for cleaning the metal being solder as well as
> > to prevent oxidation so it is important to lift the iron before all the
> > rosin is vaporized.
> >
> > The best solder iron for the modern surface mounted electronics is
> > heated by radio wave. They have incredibly fast respond time to regulate
> > the heat regardless of the heat transferred during soldering. They are
> > however very expensive. I use a magnetically regulated iron with good
> > old heating element at home. The lowest cost irons are unregulated.
> >
> >
> > - Vince
> >
>