Jason,

You may well have a vacuum leak somewhere. Thats the first thing I would
check for. Check all your vacuum lines and intake connections and be
sure they are secure. Check the hose from the vent on top of the engine
over to the AFM. The underside of that hose rots out, gets holes in it,
and it is not obvious.

Next check your idle speed. Do this as follows:

Thoroughly warm the engine.
Shut the engine down.
Disconnect the wire connector to the Idle Stabilizer Valve(ISV) on top
of the engine.
Restart the engine. Note the idle speed.
Adjust the idle speed (big slotted head screw). Turn right or left as
needed. Besure to cound the number of turns so you can put it back where
it was if needed.
Idle RPM should be about 900 rpm.
If idle is stable, shut down engine, reconnect the ISV connector, allow
the engine to cool to a cold condition for a cold start.
Restart engine cold, and check cold idle speed. The Idle Stabilizer
Circuit should kick idle up to about 1200 rpm.

If the idle speed still is not proper,  remove the right hand
tail-light, and again starting the engine cold, reach inside the opening
and remove the plug-in metal box that is the Idle Stabilizer Control
(ISC). RPM should drop to about 900 rpm. If it drops, there is a fault
in the ISC box.

Remove the box cover, and inspect the circuit boards inside. If you see
a burt capacitor or resistor, you most likely have and ISC that is toast.

Hope this helps some.

Regards,

John Rodgers
88 GL Driver

Jason Kirk wrote:

>I have a stock 2.1 watercooled engine that runs well, but consistently
>idles at 2000 rpm. What should it idle at and how do I adjust it? I've
>recently replaced the coil, distributor cap and rotor, plugs, wires, air
>and fuel filters. Is this something I should just leave alone and be
>grateful that my van is running at all?
>
>
>