At 00:18 10/6/2004, Don Sturgill wrote:
>Probably, I will follow the thread advice saying fill with the rear-end
>raised and burp with the front raised.  First, I need to get the shroud off
>the left side engine (the right shroud is already missing).  While I am
>under there, I can see why there is such an oily buildup on the bottom of
>the engine and investigate the layout a bit.

Be aware this sucker is assembled from two halves...the seam has been known 
to leak oil.  While you're there, note that the drain plug screws into one 
of those halves, there's no "oil pan" as such and no easy fixes if you 
bugger the aluminum thread.

>After getting coolant in, I need to ask Bentley and Haynes (and probably
>Rick again by this time) why it won�t idle when cold without dying.  Fuel
>injection, so no idle screw to adjust.

The 1.9l has ECU (engine control unit) control of fuel pump and injectors; 
the system is essentially the Bosch L-Jetronic.  Ignition drive is from a 
Fairchild ignition module mounted on firewall forward of the coil.  Timing 
is by a conventional distributor with vacuum advance and retard and 
centrifugal advance.  Distro. has a Hall-effect pulse generator that feeds 
the Fairchild module.  In between the two is a green or black box, supposed 
to screw to the bulkhead but ears probably broken off.  It provides a 
strong idle (you should be able to drive off carefully in low gear without 
touching the throttle) by actively adjusting the timing at idle speeds 
before the ignition module sees the pulse.  You disable it by removing the 
plugs and plugging them into each other -- this will let you adjust timing, 
basic idle speed etc.  There are *two* idle screws -- one for idle speed 
which is a big fat plug with screwdriver slot facing up and aft from the 
throttle body.  This can be way off and still idle at nominal speed because 
of the stabilizer; but things work better when it's right.  The other is 
the idle mixture screw, under a tamper-resistant plug in the AFM (Aluminum 
plug, hard steel bottom to keep in the drilling shavings, grooved outside 
with a springy wire pressing against the wall of the hole).  Instructions 
for both in Bentley.  Haynes of course doesn't cater for US oddities, but 
IIRC things they say specifically about Digijet should be right.  Our 
engine code is DH, by the way.

About parts -- You need to know your VIN, or the interesting part of it 
which is the part beginning at position 7: 24-E-nnn nnn.  The E means '84 
model year and the rest are sequential production numbers.  The two hyphens 
are place markers, ignore those digits (the second one is a location 
code).  Major things that changed: Mid '83 2.0l aircooled change to 2.1l 
watercooled, add second grille in front.  '86 shift to 2.1l engine with 
Digifant ECU -- many detail changes in induction, cooling, engine control, 
exhaust.  Mid-'85 front suspension shift to cast control arm.  '85 total 
sliding door re-design, not compatible.  Mid '84 (?) front wheel bearing 
sizes.  '86 change to single-piston calipers with thicker but 
smaller-diameter rotors.  '8(?) springs lowered perhaps an inch? '86 shift 
to quad-rectangular headlights and grille.

If you ask the list for part numbers, no doubt they will be provided 
you.  A nod is as good as a wink to a blind bat, eh? <nudge nudge wink wink>

Known weak points:  Heater fan overloads switch (and entire circuit) on 
high speed, cure by adding a separate circuit and relay for that 
speed.  Heater blower seizes, have to remove dash to fix.  Heater box 
contains two free-swinging flaps that fall off -- without them blower has 
little effect but ram air works fine.  Rear wipers prone to seize and burn 
up.  Transmission 3-4 synchro slider fails, symptom is difficult to shift 
out of those gears.  Engine control system is notorious for finicky and 
difficult behavior arising from less-than-pristine grounding.  AFM wears 
out and gets noisy which can send the ECU into panic mode, search for 
capacitor fix.  Hand brake needs strong arm -- '86-up has a longer handle 
which can be retrofitted.  Stiff shifting -- '84 have exposed bushings 
under vehicle that need greasing way too often.  If it shifts beautifully 
in rainy weather that's the problem.  Tires are critical and difficult, 
very little selection with stock 14" rims.  Michelin Agilis 4x4 is the 
"correct" choice, take six aspirin and search the archives...  Notice the 
specified pressure front and rear!!  (Speaking of which, note the crankcase 
oil specs too, most people don't expect them.)  Getting tires wrong turns 
the van into a wallowing pig and may cause blowouts.  Stabilizer bar 
(anti-roll bar) linkages tend to break where they bolt to the lower control 
arm.  Horn contact ring is either worn out or already replaced.  Headlight 
switch is marginal, carry spare and/or add relays to circuit.  Ignition 
switch probably pretty tired, carry spare.  Starter solenoid gets sticky, 
clean it or swap starter.  All high-current wiring marginal -- inspect 
carefully for signs of melting at contact crimps and replace as 
necessary.  Ground connections tend to deteriorate, check them.  Voltage 
regulator brushes wear down, inspect.  Charging voltage marginal because of 
long undersize wire run to battery, be aware.  Alternator ground to engine 
may contribute to problem; I've seen a half-volt drop there.  Shift lever 
tends to break off near bottom where it's drilled through (under shifter 
boot).  Rear brake adjusters freeze up.  Body seams rust.  Steel coolant 
pipes rust through -- they were replaced by plastic ones.  Fitting plastic 
ones requires reworking the openings underneath where they pass through, a 
pain.  Plastic ones fail at the end fittings instead.  Plastic H-shaped 
manifold near coolant expansion tank is on its last legs and is NLA from 
dealer -- beware.  See archives.  Water pump when it fails will cock 
sideways and eat into the the case well before it seizes.  Check for side 
play and replace if there is any.  Alternator mounting bolt will break if 
it's too loose, check Bentley -- I think they re-spec'ed the bolt and 
torque requirements.  *WATCH OUT* for excessive torque on engine fastenings 
-- read and heed the specs.  Unless you really enjoy putting in 
Helicoils...  Most fasteners are 8mm coarse thread, take a 13mm 
wrench.  Small ones 6mm, take a 10mm wrench.  Don't overfill oil: down a 
half is normal running full.  Full mark is Never-Exceed level, if it's 
above that take some out.  Check all rubber/fabric hoses around engine; 
vacuum leaks abound and the hoses fatigue and split very unobtrusively at 
the ends.  Any aftermarket oil filter that uses the same p/n for Vanagon as 
for Golf or anything else is Not Suitable.  Vanagon has specific 
requirements.  Mann and Mahle and dealer are safe.  OEM coolant hoses are 
amazingly durable (and expensive), but 20 years is probably about enough, 
eh?  Don't be fooled by cheesy appearance, they really are superior.  Fuel 
pump whine is probably from plugged fuel filter (small square one ahead of 
pump), change it now on GP unless you have good records showing recent 
change.  Tie rod end boots are probably perished, but they seem to hold up 
pretty well anyway.  *REPLACE ALL FUEL-CIRCUIT HOSE STARTING AT THE 
TRANSITION FROM PLASTIC PIPE TO HOSE FORWARD OF THE FIREWALL, AND REPLACE 
OR BYPASS THE PLASTIC BULKHEAD FITTING AT THE FIREWALL.  DON'T SCREW AROUND 
WITH THIS.  EXAMINE THE PLASTIC FUEL RAILS OUTBOARD OF EACH PAIR OF 
INJECTORS AND REPAIR OR REPLACE IF THE METAL RETAINING RING IS 
CORRODED.     Use 7mm fuel-injection hose and matching clamps -- 
www.vanagain.com and www.busdepot.com both have the necessary.  Yes, the 
hose is expensive and so are the clamps.  Do it anyway.  This system runs 
at 35 psi and can potentially generate over 100 psi if the pressure 
regulator fails -- engine fires are far too common, and far too commonly 
destroy the entire van.  When you do, take maximum precautions to keep the 
inside of the system pristine, just like a hydraulic system.  Doesn't take 
much to clog an injector.  While you're there, injector seals are probably 
dried up, two seals on each injector.  Ok, that's all the free-association 
I have time for...

>         Then, I need to figure out how to replace the muffler, which has a
>small hole it and is probably the source of the exhaust leak I hear.  I
>sprayed some de-rust lubricant on the bolts and prayed a bit for a miracle
>later.

I have two types of miracle for exhaust bolts.  PB-Blaster (or better yet, 
Kroil) is of course the all-purpose miracle for everything.  If saving a 
stud is important I use removal sockets from Irwin that hammer onto the nut 
and bite into it.  The 13-mm hardware will be rusted down to where the 1/2" 
Irwin socket works perfectly.  Otherwise if they're inclined to be 
difficult I don't mess with them, just cut them off with 
oxy-acetylene.  Far faster than grinding and much easier not to damage the 
flanges.

This is a rigid exhaust system; it has seven (?) struts to support it and 
you need them all.  The support for the muffler is byzantine and $$$ (and 
rusts); and depends on a strap that's $$ and rusts and is NLA from 
dealer.  Bus Depot has them.  Don't touch the muffler before you know what 
condition that stuff is in and what you'll need to do with it.  Victor 
makes a superior exhaust putty that can slather over small holes 
temporarily, comes in an orange tube.

>         Oh, yeah, I really need to figure out where the water is going from
>the expansion jug.  I can�t see any water dripping from the engine, but the
>expansion chamber must be filled daily.  I just don�t like continued driving
>without any antifreeze.

Worst case, it's going into the cylinders.  An exhaust sniffer finding 
hydrocarbons in the refill tank headspace will nail that 
diagnosis.  Likewise a sniffer for antifreeze products in the exhaust.  VW 
specifies 50/50 antifreeze mix for all running conditions.

>         As to the jacking situation:
>
>Assuming I use the lowest front cross-brace to jack under�. It is about 10.5
>inches off the ground.  I must take the vehicle up another 16 inches.  I

Radiator to rear wheels is about 135 inches.  Rear wheels to front wheels 
is about 100 inches.  12" lift at front wheels will give you 16" at 
radiator.  Try for 16" at front wheels and you'll probably drop it, just 
like I did (they're strong vehicles for sure, but it's not at all good for 
your wife's heart rate...trust me.

>�Coram Deo��. That is a phrase that I love and I use it to identify my

Real "in your face" deal, eh? <g>

cheers and welcome.
david
"God provided Toyotas so that we could (also) have Vanagons, and naughty 
high-maintenance children so we could learn how to love said Vanagons"

--
David Beierl - Providence RI USA -- http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/
'84 Westy "Dutiful Passage," '85 GL "Poor Relation"