The backing plates were originally zinc coated, galvanized or otherwise
protected. If they are rusted, they are probably weak, have been pried
on, bent twisted, etc and should probably be replaced. Many brake
complaints of soft pedal and squeaks are due to the backing plates not
holding the shoes straight to the surface of the drum. Check the wear of
the drums. If they are tapered, the plate is the problem.

The shoes should be shimmed at the bottom by removing the mounting pins.
Usually 3mm needs to be added to each pin for factory shoes. 4-5mm may
be needed for after market. McMaster car has great 14mm ID shims in
Stainless. In a pinch, some 9/16" external snap rings from the local
hardware store work fine. A small torch will help get the cables out of
the backing plate. A large torch may be needed to get the lower shoe
mounts out of the center holder.

For best pedal feel, make sure the wheel cylinders have the springs to
push the pistons out, (ATE) and the adjuster and cable set correctly.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
Of Tim Demarest
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2004 1:38 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: HELP! Separating e-brake cable from rear brake backing plate...

Oh great sages of the list...

Anyone BTDT and know how to get the e-brake cables to come off the rear
brake backing plate?

I'm replacing rear wheel bearings on my Westy, and since I'm taking the
brakes apart anyway, I want to clean up and POR-15 the backing plates...
I've got one brake apart, and now have the backing plate attached to the
van by only the e-brake cable. I'd like to get it detached from the van,
so
I can do the cleanup/painting in the garage (where it's warmer).

On another note, I need to shim the bottom of the brake shoes slightly,
I
recently replaced them, but I've got wear only on the tops of the shoes.
What's the recommended method for shimming these? Do I just slip thin
slivers of shim stock between the shoes and the lower mounting pins, or
do
I need to pull the mounting pins, and insert shim 'washers' under them?
Is
aluminum good enough, or do I need to pick up some brass shim stock?

Thanks in advance,

Tim