Warren,

Not a big deal, just messy, and a little time consuming. VERY IMPORTANT
- be sure the bolts are torqued properly when they go back together.

That being said, you will definitely have to remove the axle to remove
the boot from it. And as long as you have to have it out, you might as
well clean, inspect, and lube the CV's. If you have a boot that has
split, go ahead and replace them both while you are at it, or you will
soon be doing this all over again.

When installing the new boot, it goes on easier if you use a little
silicone grease, somehing like DC4 or similar as a lubricant for the
rubber boot to slide on over the shaft.

Don't forget to put the lock ring back on the end of the shaft after
re-installing the CV on the shaft.

BTW, to remove the lock ring from the shaft to service the CV's, there
is a special pair of lockring pliers needed. While it can be removed
with a screwdriver, far better and more efficient, and saves time and
reduces risk to the eyes if you just bite the bullet and buy the ring
pliers. Then you will have them for all time.

Regards,

John Rodgers
88 GL Driver

Warren Lail wrote:

>
>In addition, the thread on CV axles got me to thinking, so I examined my boots carefully.  Those near the tranny
>are great, but one of the boots near the wheel is split.  Now I have never pulled one of those axles from back
>in that cave near the wheel.  I think I can remove it okay, but is replacing the boot itself a big job?  Yep, I know
>it'll be a dirty one.  Anything I ought to be looking out for?
>
>