I don't think I would ever go to all that work without putting in a new
heater core. I've put a new one in my 82 diesel and my 91 wbx. I'd say
they easily put out TWICE the heat of the old clogged one. I'm sure
there are ways to clean them internally, probably an ultrasonic tank and
then a flush, but who's got one of those?
Probably about $100  from a list vendor.
Al Brase

Frank Condelli wrote:

>In a message dated 19/11/2004 12:41:18 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
>
>Anything  else that should be looked at while I have the dash out?
>Many thanks for  the wisdom
>
>
>
>Don, I just did one this week and have a few  more coming in for the same.
>Seems to be a never ending problem with the  Vanagon.  It's a long tedious job
>but not complicated.   Recommendations: glue some kind of plastic cap over the
>exposed end bearing of  the new fan motor unit.  This will extend its life.
>VW thought it was  "cool" to leave it in the dirty incoming air path !  More
>"German"  engineering.  Look at all the flaps in the heater unit.  More than
>likely the foam seals on them are toast.  Replace them with peel &  stick foam
>insulation stripping found at your local hardware store.  The  plastic foam
>seal retainers on some of the flaps can be discarded as more than  likely the
>foam you procure will be too thick to allow them to be  reinstalled.  Not needed
>as long as the new foam sticks well and that's  gonna depend on YOU cleaning
>the flaps well !  Clean both halves of the  heater assembly as best you can.
>I found a large laundry tub filled with  hot water and all purpose household
>cleaned and a plastic bristle brush worked  quite well for this.  Look at the
>heater core for signs of leaking.   If you find any corrosion spots the core is
>leaking and needs to be changed NOW  !  After you have cut or broken open the
>heater housing to get at the  fan & motor assembly you will need to glue it
>back together, use black  silicone RTV for this.  There are clips available
>somewhere to clip on the  tabs around the circumference.  I do not know where to
>get them.  I  use small flat head sheet metal screws on each tab, pre-drilling
>a small hole  before threading in the screw.  Test the unit for operation
>before gluing  the two halves back together.  You want to know if the step
>resistor is  working before you reinstall the unit !  The one I worked on this week
>had  the step resistor in the heater assembly.  Test all the heater cable
>controls before reinstalling to make sure they open and close the flaps in the
>heater assembly properly.  The cable that operates the heater control valve  in
>the coolant line can only be tested and adjusted after you reinstall the
>heater assembly, don't forget to check its operation both at the lever  controls
>and under the spare tire where the valve is.  If the valve is  leaking as many
>do now is the time to change that also.  Before  reinstalling the heater
>assembly clean up the fire wall area where it  attaches.  Any flaking paint or
>rusting here should be dealt with NOW  !  Now is also a good time to clean up and
>repair any  wiring, instrument lights, ducts or anything else that needs
>attention.  Good luck and have fun getting heat your heat back !
>
>Cheers,
>
>Frank  Condelli
>Almonte, Ontario, Canada
>_BusFusion_ (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm)  a VW Camper
>camping event, Almonte, ON, June 09 ~ 12, 2005
>'87 Westy, '90 Carat &  Lionel Trains
>Member: _Vanagon List_ (http://www.vanagon.com/) , _LiMBO_
>(http://www.bcn.net/~limbo/) , _IWCCC_ (http://www.westfalia.qc.ca/)  & _CCVWC_
>(http://www.ccvwc.ca/)
>Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in  the Ottawa Valley
>_STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless Steel  Mufflers_
>(http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/stebro.htm)
>_Frank Condelli &  Associates_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html)
>or  http://frankcondelli.com
>
>
>