>Now I want to tackle the upper ball joints and stabilizer bushings.
>What am I in for?
>

Upper ball joints are really easy.  Just undo the (I think 6mm) allen
head bolts and the big nut on the ball joint itself.  Give it a whack
with a hammer it should just pop out.

If the upper control arm bushings are worn and you don't want to deal
with welding new ones on, find another upper control arm from a
junkyard with good bushings and just swap the whole arm, very easy to
do.

Lower ball joints are a PITA, you need a press with funky adaptors to
press them in.
Luckily lower ball joints don't wear out that often on Vanagons so
you probably don't have to change them anyway...