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Subject:Re: Oil Cooler seal
From:Shawn Wright
Date:Thu, 6 Jan 2005 21:01:45 -0800

On 6 Jan 2005 at 18:20, tomas fredricks <tifredricks@YAHOO.COM> wrote:

> I need some practical instruction on replacing the seal between the block
> and the oil cooler on my recently acquired '86 Synchro.  The old one
> failed during start up on a 3 degree day.  This leads to question two.
> The oil that is all over my driveway is 20W50.  The former owner was
> adamant about not using a lower grade.  The manual seems to recommend
> grades appropriate to temperatures.  Is there a reason for using the
> heavier oil all the time?

I would say no! I assume you mean 3 deg F, which is *way* too cold to be running
20w50 dino oil in anything IMHO. I used to run 20w50 year round in my Jetta TD,
only because it suffered from low oil pressure when hot, and 20w50 helped a bit
(failed int shaft bearings). However, 20w50 on a zero to 5C (32-40F) morning would
result in over 100psi of oil pressure at the *head* for a minute or more. (I had a
mechanical gauge installed). At 5F, your oil pressure is likely far too high, not to
mention taking forever to actually flow to the engine bearings. If you regularly see
those temps, I'd suggest a 15w50 synthetic - I used Mobil 1 15w50 for several years
in my 2.1L WBX with very good success. Due to the much better cold flow
properties, a 15w50 synthetic will perform as well (better) at operating temps as
20w50, and avoid the cold pressure problems. The last several years I've run 15w40
synthetic, mainly because I buy it in bulk with my Dad (Amsoil HD Marine Diesel Oil,
but it's also great in gas engines).
If the PO insisted on 20w50, the van may have borderline oil pressure problems
when hot which are lessened with 20w50 (has your buzzer ever gone off?), or he
was just one of those guys who swears by 20w50. I used to as well...

--
Shawn Wright
I.T. Manager
Shawnigan Lake School