I never thought about the burrs since I was sitting in the house and
not in the garage.  That's a damn good Idea.  A LOT better than a big
hole saw.  THIS is why we have the list.  Good call.  I don't have a
plasma cutter.  Only have so many nuts to sell...

TJ

On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 17:02:12 -0800, Doug in Calif <vanagon@astound.net> wrote:
> I use step drills up to 1 inch  they work well.
> Beyond that a 1/4 die grider Makita and solid carbide burr bits
> They chew threw metal like butter, you could write your name in the metal if
> you wanted.
> Plasma torch also would work very excellently if you have the grand to buy
> one.
>
> Doug
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "TJ Hemrick" <x53gunner@GMAIL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2005 4:35 PM
> Subject: hole saws/floor cutting
>
> >   This is a highly opinionated response so take it with a grain of
> > salt.  Being a man, I'll use any excuse to buy a new tool.  Now I've
> > got several tools from Harbor Freight and they serve me very well and
> > at a great cost.  BUT, if I'm going to be cutting a hole in my pride
> > and joy, I'm going to sell my left #@% to pay for the best hole saw I
> > can find.  I'll always find a use for it or other blades if I find a
> > great one that allows blade changes and if I need to help someone else
> > out, I'm prepared.  Especially after comments like, "A hole saw will
> > work but is tricky to control in that space.  Done it.  Extra damaged
> > knuckles job.   That in itselft says to me, "go big"  Now that doesn't
> > mean spend the most, but good tools usually cost more.  Good luck and
> > safe drilling as bits tend to grab and stop when going through sheet
> > metal.  The bigger the bit, the bigger the grab.  When that bit grabs,
> > it stops right NOW.  The drill will turn in your hand so use the
> > slowest big drill you can find with an extension hand.  Leave plenty
> > of cord available as it will wrap around your arms.  My buddies dad
> > had a bit grab after breaking through sheet metal.  The bit stopped,
> > the drill didn't, it wrapped the cord around both arms and he couldn't
> > let go of the trigger fast enough and broke both wrists right then and
> > there.  Crazy old guy drove himself to the hospital.  Don't ask, I
> > didn't.
> >   This is one case I disagree with, "Use a cheapie hole saw set from
> > harbor freight or similar. "
> >
> > just my.02
> > TJ
> >
> > Date:    Sat, 22 Jan 2005 11:19:13 -0700
> > From:    jimt <camper@TACTICAL-BUS.INFO>
> > Subject: Re: cutting hole in van floor
> >
> > On 1/22/05 11:01 AM, "Gerald Masar" <azsun99@EARTHLINK.NET> wrote:
> >
> > > I need to cut a 50mm (slightly less than 2") hole in the floor of my '90
> =
> > Westy
> > > to
> > > install a gas furnace. It will be in the back corner of the small
> compart=
> > ment
> > > to the
> > > left of the fridge. I looked at holesaws yesterday, and besides being
> > > expensive to buy
> > > one for just this job, I am wondering how well they would work on the
> une=
> > ven,
> > > ribbed
> > > surface of the van floor. And the hole will come out 1/8" away from the
> m=
> > ain
> > > side
> > > beam.
> > > Any hints, tips, suggestions on how to do this?
> > > Thanks
> > > Jerry
> > >=20
> > >=20
> >
> > A hole saw will work but is tricky to control in that space.  Done it.
> > Extra damaged knuckles job.  Coming out the bottom I suspect a propex
> > furnace.  Use a cheapie hole saw set from harbor freight or similar.  A
> > couple buck throw away.
> >
> >
> =95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=
> 95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95
> > jimt
> > Planned insanity is best.
> > Remember that sanity is optional.
> > http://www.tactical-bus.info (tech info)
> > http://www.westydriver.com
>
>