

| Subject: | Re: technique question-- molds - modify a top?? |
| From: | Jonathan Farrugia |
| Date: | Mon, 7 Feb 2005 15:17:35 -0500 |
perhaps this is closer to what you are looking at doing. this person who is on the list i believe modified a Type 2 hightop (from the pictures i believe it to be a safare top) to fit a vanagon. http://www.soyouz.ca/syncro/index.htm here is where they start with the hightop part of the project. http://www.soyouz.ca/syncro/pictures5.htm jonathan On Mon, 7 Feb 2005, jimt wrote: > After looking around at the availability of trying to get a solid > sportcamper or adventurewagon top, I am very seriously looking at modifying > an existing top. Note the top itself not molds for a top. The problems is > at that scale I need to know what the integrity would be. > For example if I was to take a fiberglass canoe and decide to shorten it by > 1 foot and make it a foot narrower, would I be able to refasten the parts > together and have a good canoe? > jimt > > On 2/7/05 8:55 AM, "Max Wellhouse" <maxjoyce@ipa.net> wrote: > > > I'm not an expert, but have dealt in Kayak molds and plugs, and you might > > be better off making a heavy part(chopper gun or lots of matt, as you are > > effectively making a plug here to modify later) from the existing mold, PVA > > the hell out of the mold surface after waxing til your arms fall off(to > > prevent the new plug from sticking to the old mold), then go through the > > gelcoat and laminating process. It would be helpful to find out what the > > layup was for the original parts and then multiply that several times so > > you have a very stiff plug to keep it's original integrity. Since you're > > going to be doing many changes to it, I wouldn't worry about having a > > pretty surface as it's much more important to have the new plug release > > from the old mold. I'd also be careful when laminating a thick plug as > > that much thickness with normal catalyst concentrations could make a VERY > > warm environment(exothermic heat buildup, I think). I have a friend in > > Pittsburg Kansas that is an expert in the field, having laminated a > > mahogany wood plug for a commercial 48" city water valve mold that needed > > to spec out within .06" I could get you in touch with him if you were > > really serious about the project.At 03:15 PM 2/6/2005, jimt wrote: > >> On 2/6/05 8:00 AM, "Joe Federici" <joefederici@EARTHLINK.NET> wrote: > >> > >> On a hightop for my van I have been looking at some of the ones in the > >> salvage yards that are on chevy and dodge etc. > >> > >> For those that work in the fiberglassing, how hard would it be to maybe > >> modify one of those tops. One I was looking at I figure I could do the base > >> trimming with very little difficulty. The hard part would be a split down > >> the center to remove about 1 inch and then somewhere across from one side to > >> the other to remove about 6 or 7 inches. > >> > >> I was thinking 20 gauge aluminum plate (or similar) along the seams from the > >> inside with rivets through to plate on the outside at points and then reseal > >> everything with fiberglassing kit. I have done similar on smaller projects > >> but never on anything of that size. Is this doable on that scale? > >> > > ���������������������������������������� > jimt > Planned insanity is best. > Remember that sanity is optional. > http://www.tactical-bus.info (tech info) > http://www.westydriver.com > > >
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