If you pull the heads out just another 1/2" you should see some ears
sticking out on the cylinders between the two cylinders and also on the
opposite side (outter corner).  I have found the best way that works
every time is to take a punch and tap on one of the ears of the cylinder
until it moves down a little (you are trying to twist the cylinder just
a little (1/8th of an inch).  Then go to the opposite side of that same
cylinder and tap down on that ear twisting the cylinder the opposite
direction just a little.  Do that on both cylinders and then put a screw
driver between the head and the two inner ears and pry.  The head should
pop right off.  This works every time and is pretty easy.

Hope this helps,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com

jbclem1 wrote:

>First time I've removed the cylinder heads with the engine in the car, 1983 watercooled.  I'm on the
>#1 & #2 side, I've separated the cylinder head about 3/4" from the block(water jacket) and I can see
>the cylinders moving with the cylinder head...ie they are sticking to the cylinder head.
>
>I thought I'd stop at this point and ask for some unsticking cylinder heads tips.  I've sprayed
>WD-40 like substance as much as I could, I've tapped lightly on the cylinder head hoping the
>vibration might free up the rust.  I may take a piece of wood and try tapping on the cylinders.
>
>Any surefire ideas at this point?  I'm trying to avoid removing the engine, and I'd like to keep the
>cylinders from coming out with the head.
>
>John
>
>
>