Alistair,

I managed a simple setup that works great - used the old cap off my Jetta,
which has a level sensor. Pop out the sensor, and you're left with about a
5/8" hole. I found a steel sleeve that fit into the hole, and accepted an air
fitting at the other end. (all of this from parts on hand - if I did it again, I'd
probably find right size washers and used the threaded brass fitting.
Hooked up to a compressor, and gradually increased the regulator from 0
to 15 psi. Cracked the bleeder, and away it went. The cap didn't seal
perfectly, but didn't need to since, the compressor has tons of air to deliver
at 15psi (if using a 'wet' approach, I'd want a good seal of course). I filled
the tank to the brim, which gives enough fluid to fully bleed the clutch, and
leave the level at MAX. Thanks for all the help - I now have a working
clutch again!! :-)

On 26 Feb 2005 at 9:27, Alistair Bell <albell@uvic.ca> wrote:

> Shawn,
>
> my version of the pressure bleeder (not as nice as the BMW chap's one)
> works just fine with the pedals in the up, relaxed, position. I guess I
> was "unencumbered by the thought process" for I never considered the mc
> piston position.
>
> I would suggest you run it "wet", that its the press bleeder fills the
> reservoir as it goes. In my bleeder, I use a bike pump to pressurize
> the system, and I run around 10 - 15 psi as you mentioned.
>
> I was surprised when I first used my contraption for there was no mess,
> lucky I suppose? I like the BMW chap's modification to the filler cap
> that allows the reservoir to be left filled at the correct level.
>
> I have to say again, using a press bleeder makes all of the hydraulic
> bleeding a joy (well, you know what I mean). Just going from slave to
> slave and cracking the nipple is sure a lot nicer than the "pump to
> bleed" or vacuum bleeding. But this is only the case if your bleeder
> constantly fills the reservoir, and if the bleeder has enough capacity
> to "store" a good charge of pressurized air.
>
> One more thing. Make your collecting vessel carefully, You don't want
> it falling over and spilling fluid.
>
>
> Alistair
>
> '82 westy, diesel converted to gas in '94
> http://www.members.shaw.ca/albell/
>
> On 26-Feb-05, at 9:02 AM, Shawn Wright wrote:
>
> > I'm planning to build a pressure bleeder to hopefully resurrect my
> > clutch.
> > I've read numerous posts and web articles on these things, including
> > both
> > a wet and dry approach (pumping fluid or just air). I'll probably try
> > the dry
> > approach first to reduce possible mess.
> >
> > My question is this - one article mentions that you're forcing fluid
> > past the
> > master cylinder seals, which is something I had been wondering about.
> > Isn't there position in the piston stroke where fluid is allowed to
> > enter the
> > cylinder? I imagine there must be, and if so, what is this position?
> > It would
> > seem the resting positon would be the only way it could work. So
> > doesn't
> > this mean the pressure bleeding doesn't actually force fluid past the
> > seals
> > as long as the pedals remain in the up position?
> >
> > Also, the same article mentions clamping the hose leading to clutch
> > master
> > cylinder (not a Vanagon, but similar I guess) to avoid leaking at this
> > hose,
> > since it's not designed for pressure. I'm thinking of trying 10-15 psi
> > at most
> > and watching carefully for leaks. Any other tricks or tips?
> >
> > Thanks.Shawn Wright
> > http://zuiko.sls.bc.ca/~swright
> > '85 Jetta TD (retired)
> > '85 Jetta D
> > '88 Westy 2.1L
> > '82 Diesel Westy
> >
>
>

Shawn Wright
http://zuiko.sls.bc.ca/~swright
'85 Jetta TD (retired)
'85 Jetta D
'88 Westy 2.1L
'82 Diesel Westy