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Subject:Re: going down for the second time w/ the waterpump
From:Frank Condelli
Date:Sun, 6 Mar 2005 06:12:50 EST

In a message dated 05/03/2005 8:32:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:

Well as  half time approached(the point that the pump is actually removed
from vehicle  and replacement begins)I had the old pump out (score 3 points).The
waterpump  ran the ensuing kickoff back 110 yards (7 points) when I broke off
two(2) 10mm  screws on the thermistat housing.These are the 2 bolts that hold
the  trapizoidal flange to the short hose.These bolts are now one quarter inch
 studs that stick up out of the housing for a 1.9.I used propane heat and
all,but no luck(snap! snap!) Is my thermistat housing now toast, or can some
trick be pulled out of a hat to fix it? I doubt it. I see my choices as   1, buy
a new one from VW.I'll have to mortgage the house to do that,if they  are
avaliable.  2,go to a junk yard and put in about 5 hours to get a new  used one
off and engine.I now see those occasional offers for free or cheep  cores as
good deals.Mind ya,I'm doing this in 35 degree weather w/a cast on my  foot.With
the pump off, I can see where the old impeller has buzz sawed some  metal
off the engine case.There is a small amount of metal that remains.I  think
enough remains to properly direct the coolant.I once heard of jb weld  being
used to patch up something like this. Does anyone have the low down on  this
condition?   waterpump, 7  me, 3. My team(me) is in the  locker room at half time
trying to come up w/a new game  plan.

Roger, your problems with that waterpump and  thermostat housing are common
on most all 1.9s.  Corrosion of aluminium to  steel is better than welding.  I
have managed to save a few of these  thermostat housing and if you look on my
_Vanagon Items Forsale_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/sales.htm) , "Used
Parts" section you will find a couple 1.9 thermostat housings that I have
refurbished all coming with Stainless Steel hardware.  Now that said, you  may be
able to save yours if you want to spend some time on it.  Once the  bolt heads
break off on those long bolts or any of the others for that matter  the only
thing left to do it drill them out if there is no butt left to grab  with a pair
of Vise Grips.  If you are able to grab on with the Vise Grips,  use heat from
a propane torch to heat the surrounding aluminium and a good  quality
penetrating oil.  This technique will usually get the bolt  out.  If not you will
have to drill using very good titanium hardened steel  drill bits.  Stating with
a small 1/8" bit to get a straight and true pilot  hole then using
successively larger bits until you get the old bolt out and not  ruin the threads.  If
the hole has threads you will need a tap to clean out  what is left of the bolt.
 This operation make take several tries with the  tap as it loads up and
needs to be removed often to clean out the blind hole so  that the tap will
continue without braking or damaging the threaded  hole.  If you damage the threads
you will need to install a Helicoil to  repair the threads.  As you can see it
can become quite a long process to  save one of these thermostat housings so
the price I'm asking for the  refurbished ones are cheap and does not in any
way reflect the time I spent on  saving them.  But, saving them was the goal
not to get rich !  So you  can buy a used one that's been refurbished or go at
yours and try to save  it.  Don't know if they are still available new as I've
not checked on that  item lately at my VW dealer, so that may be another
option.
    Regarding the damage to the engine block where the  waterpump impeller
has gouged out a path.  This should be repaired for  proper waterpump operation.
 This too is a very common sight.  I  repair this area with JB weld.  Clean
the damaged area well with a wire  brush on a rotary tool, clean with lacquer
thinner, apply JB weld so that it  will more than cover the damage, let JB Weld
cure, sand the surface smooth with  an orbital palm sander using 120 grit
sand paper.  Use a very light coating  of Permatex Grey RTV Silicon Sealant for
aluminium surfaces on the O-ring when  installing the new pump.  This should be
used on all the aluminium mating  surfaces of the water pump and thermostat
housing top prevent future  corrosion.  Use a liberal coating of anti-sieze on
all the bolt shafts and  threads to prevent their corroding again even if you
use stainless steel  hardware.  Hope this is helpful.  I know the pain your
going  through.  The changing of the waterpump and thermostat housing on the 1.9
 engine is one of the most horrible jobs there is on a Vanagon.  Take your
time and do it well and try to not get too frustrated with the ignorant German
engineers that designed this bit of Hell for us.

Cheers,

Frank  Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
_BusFusion_ (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm)  a VW Camper
camping event, Almonte, ON, June 09 ~ 12, 2005
'87 Westy, '90 Carat &  Lionel Trains
Member: _Vanagon List_ (http://www.vanagon.com/) , _LiMBO_
(http://www.bcn.net/~limbo/) , _IWCCC_ (http://www.westfalia.qc.ca/)  & _CCVWC_
(http://www.ccvwc.ca/)
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in  the Ottawa Valley
_STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless Steel  Mufflers_
(http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/stebro.htm)
_Frank Condelli &  Associates_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html)
or  http://frankcondelli.com