In a message dated 01/03/2005 5:32:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:

a word  on POR-15..  its good (expensive) stuff, but its not a  cureall.   if
you dont properly prep the surface, or redo the  seams, or stop the rust at
its
orgin, POR-15 is useless..just a band  aid.   POR-15 will not stop rust. its
just a epoxy based  coating.  its a tough coating tho..  only reccomended  for
underbody applications, or suspension parts, or other parts that dont  get
subjected to UV rays or need to be topcoated.
in otherwords, its  fine to use in your wheelwells etc, but i wouldnt use it
on the outside of  your van where it needs to be topcoated..

Chris, you have reported quite a good bit of  information on repairing rust
but I will have to disagree with you on a couple  of points about the POR-15.
It's is not any kind of Epoxy based  paint.  Epoxy's are two part paints,
paint and curing agent.  POR-15  uses humidity to cure.  The higher the humidity
the faster it cures.   Once cured nothing can penetrate it's glass like
surface.  It can be used  anywhere on a vehicle not just undercarriage.  Yes, it is
ultraviolet ray  light susceptible and will turn a chalky grey in the sunlight
but that does not  harm its capacity to protect the metal.  On exterior
surfaces it must be  top coated with primer or paint before it sets.  Best method is
to apply  primer as the POR-15 becomes tacky to the touch.  It can be top
coated  after curing by either sanding so that ALL the surface is dull and I do
mean  ALL, any where it is shiny the topcoat of anything will not stick.  That
said POR-15 is now selling a product called Self-Etching Primer and can be
sprayed on top of cured POR-15 which will allow a top coat of whatever primer
or  paint you wish.  Using POR-15 to repair seam rust is in my opinion the best
 way.  It stops further rusting if you clean out the seam and I mean CLEAN,
follow the prep instructions and do both sides of the seam.  You do not  want
to get the POR-15 too much beyond the rusted area on to fresh metal, just
enough to make a seal to fresh metal.  Top coat with high build primer,  feather
edge the resulting edge into the existing good surface then prime again  in a
larger area until you have a perfectly smooth surface to apply paint.   Paint
and good luck trying to get a perfect match.  That's the hardest part  unless
it's white.  I usually try to paint to a seam line or body line to  hide the
new/old finish line.  Epoxy and Urethane based paints are the  worst for trying
to blend edges Base-Clear goes a little better but  the Clear is still Epoxy
or Urethane and there will always be an edge where  the new and old meet.
There are many tricks to hide that  edge but that's best left to very experienced
body persons who know them  well.
    I recently began using POR-15 to repair  perforated rust areas and so far
I am very satisfied with the results.   Using POR-15 paint, POR Patch and
chopped Fiberglas to fill has proven to make a  like new surface that will not
rust again and the area is a strong as it was  originally.  I have not tried
this in very large areas and I suspect that  it will not work.  For large rusted
out areas the best way is still to cut  and weld in new metal.  Repairing
small rusted or perforated areas with the  POR-15 technique will not require the
use of any body fillers.  Some  top coat surface putty may be necessary to get
a perfectly smooth surface on  really rough spots but most time successive
coats of hi-build primer will get  the surface smooth for painting.
    The one trick to all this is to make sure you use  the POR-15 as
directed.  Read the instructions provided with the  material.  Do not attempt to
circumvent these instructions and complain  afterwards that POR-15 does not work
for you.  Clean the surface with  POR-15 Marine Clean, flaky rust should be
removed prior to cleaning as much as  possible but not entirely necessary.  It
will give you a smother surface in  the end if you remove the flaking rust.  I
usually like to use a wire wheel  on a rotary air tool or spot sand blaster.
Rinse the area with clear  water and air dry.  Apply POR-15 Metal Ready and let
set until the surface  becomes etched.  Rinse with clear water and air dry.
Now your  ready for the POR-15 application.  Do not touch the prepped surface
with  your fingers or anything else.  If you contaminate the surface the POR-15
 will not adhere well.
    Get a POR-15 catalogue and read it.  You will  find a wealth of rust
repair & prevention information in those pages.
    And, NO, I do not sell the stuff or have any shares  in the company.
Just a very happy user of over 15 years.

Cheers,

Frank  Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
_BusFusion_ (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm)  a VW Camper
camping event, Almonte, ON, June 09 ~ 12, 2005
'87 Westy, '90 Carat &  Lionel Trains
Member: _Vanagon List_ (http://www.vanagon.com/) , _LiMBO_
(http://www.bcn.net/~limbo/) , _IWCCC_ (http://www.westfalia.qc.ca/)  & _CCVWC_
(http://www.ccvwc.ca/)
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in  the Ottawa Valley
_STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless Steel  Mufflers_
(http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/stebro.htm)
_Frank Condelli &  Associates_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html)
or  http://frankcondelli.com