#1) You can drive the van to a truck repair shop and have them loosen the
nuts then drive home and do your work. After you install bearings and grease
drive back and get the nuts torqued.
#2) The bearings do not need to be pressed out.
#3) While you've got the housings off you might want to drill and thread
them for ZERK fittings.
#4) Use general purpose grease, Synthetic or Molybdenum grease will turn
that needle type bearing into a bushing.
#5) That beater for removing the nut can be bought from EMPI dealers but
lots of luck and I hope you don't break your arm or launch that thing into
orbit.

Stan Wilder
Engine Ceramics
214-352-4931
www.engineceramics.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Anonymous Digest" <jbrush@AROS.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 11:35 AM
Subject: 46mm socket for wheel bearing

> Gotta pester you folks if you don't mind. I don't own any heavy duty
> tools, especially 3/4 inch drive stuff, but I probably need to replace my
> rear wheel bearings myself, so I want to make sure and get the right tools
> the first time.
>
> Does the 46mm socket come in a 6 point? I am seeing a few places that have
> 12pts, but wonder if I ought to be searching for a 6pt instead?
>
> I have read the archives, and stared at the Bentley, and still cannot
> decide if I am going to need  a press to get the bearings in and out.
> Anyone done this without having to take the hub to a shop and have the
> bearings replaced?
>
> Has anyone used the tool BusDepot sells to hammer the nut off. Sounds like
> it might be a good idea, although it doesn't provide a way to torque it
> back on correctly. I could probably just trash the nut with a sledge
> hammer and a chisel :-) but that still doesn't get the new one back on
> correctly.....
>
> I know its been covered in the archives, but not in a lot of detail, as
> far as I can find.
>
> As always, thanks a lot.
>
> John
>
>
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