----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Cardo" <rrecardo@WEBTV.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 6:28 AM
Subject: Re: removing engine studs: more questions

> << but sometimes a little judicious heating with a propane torch will
> pave the way for the vice grip to work. If I was going to try a torch I
> would be extremely careful using it, possibly making a metal
> shield/blocking device to keep the flame or heat from going anywhere but
> to the flange the exhaust studs fit into.>>
>
> And here is the problem.
> A propane Home Depot propane torch isn't going to give you enough
> concentrated heat as the stud boss in the head to even budge the frozen
> stud.
>
> Not in any proficient manner anyway.
>
> The flame is to cold, and much to broad to pin point enough heat to
> budge the bolts, studs nuts, or the studs themselves.
>
> I just dropped my exhaust system in 20 minutes using a oxy acetylene
> torch.
> If the nuts or bolts even looked bad I heated them up white hot and they
> popped right out.
>
> When I had the heads off the engine I heated up the stud bosses with the
> small brazing tip and they all came out immediately using a cocave jawed
> Vice Grips
>
> If you have a bunch of time, and aren't concerned where the heat is
> going use the colder propane removal process.
> It'll take you hours instead of minutes, and more than likely melt every
> wire, hose, or whatever that's within close proximity to the area your
> heating.
>
> Use the right tool for the right job.