Howdy From Texas,

Although I don't have any experience with the Vanagon clutches in question,
I would like to make a point or two and add a bit of information.

The effort required to depress the clutch pedal is not related to the clutch
disc itself. Instead, it is a function of the strength of the springs in the
pressure plate. The fact that the clutch plates differ in thickness suggests
that, all things equal, the thicker clutch plate will last longer than the
thin one.

There are also other signs of a failing clutch master and/or slave cylinder.
An early warning sign that either cylinder is going to fail can manifest
itself in another way. At a standstill, with the clutch pedal depressed and
the transmission in first gear, the vehicle may have the urge to creep
forward. This happens because they hydraulic system (most likely the clutch
or slave cylinder) is beginning to leak fluid (usually past one of the
pistons in the cylinders).

Generally you will have some sign that a cylinder is going to fail. However
the cylinders can be purchased relatively inexpensively (less than $50 or so
from vendors such as Bus Depot). Because of this, keeping one or both on
hand isn't prohibitively expensive for most people. If one cylinder does
fail it is a good idea to replace both - it can be presumed that they have
both been in service for the same period of time unless you have proof to
the contrary.

Remember maintenance also. Brake systems should be bled every 1 to 2 years.
When you do this, don't forget to bleed the hydraulic clutch system also.
Many folks never consider this.

Good Luck!

Cheers,
Bruce
motorbruce
motorbruce@hotmail.com

>From: Sam Walters <sam.cooks@VERIZON.NET>
>Reply-To: Sam Walters <sam.cooks@VERIZON.NET>
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: Difference between Sachs, Luk HD, Luk Premium?
>Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 11:06:49 -0400
>
>Conrad,
>
>I once looked at the different clutch discs while at the location of
>VanAgain.com.  The more expensive definitely is thicker and more
>substantial.  But the cheaper one works just fine and last for lots of
>miles for people.  I made the decision for my old 84 based on projected
>time and distance of use.  I knew that Van had a limited life expectancy
>with me due to all of its problems so I went with the cheaper one and it
>was still working fine when the van was stripped last fall.
>
>If I thought I was going to keep a particular van for at least 50k
>miles, I would put in the heavy duty clutch.
>
>I found that the clutch in my Syncro which is supposed to be the HD (I
>didn't buy it) is easier to push down than the stock one that was in my
>84 and the replacement.  The clutch in my 85 is more like the Syncro.  I
>don't think one needs tree trunk legs to push any of them.  From my
>experience, the HD has to do with the build of clutch plate, not the
>effort required to push the pedal.
>
>Regarding the $80 difference, many think it is.  Most of the cost of a
>clutch job is $$ for labor or your time for labor.  If the HD clutch
>lasts 30% longer, it is probably worth it if you intend to keep the van
>for a long time.
>
>Usually, not always, the failure of the master or slave is gradual and
>you notice some softness in the pedal for a few days before it gets to
>the point where it won't work.  So if the pedal starts having to be
>pushed closer to the floor to disengage the clutch and engages closer to
>the floor, fluid is leaking somewhere and you had better check the
>master and the slave and the brakes also.  I have always gotten some
>warning (about 5-6 slave failures in 20 years), but ignored it /
>procrastinated a day or two a few times and twice came out to find the
>van's clutch inoperable the next morning.   Now I pay quick attention to
>the soft clutch pedal.  (Or hope I will have learned my lesson.)
>
>--
>Sam Walters
>Baltimore, MD
>
>89 Syncro GL
>85 Westy Weekender
>
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