The way I find top dead center is to watch the rotor as I turn the engine.
With a std shift I put the transmission in 2nd gear and rock the car until
the rotor is pointing at the notch in the distributor rim. With an automatic
you'll need a wrench on the rear bolt.
With #1 spark plug removed I insert a piece of stainless steel (the flat
part of a disposed wiper blade, or a .030 brass bar 1/4" x 12" an Ace
Hardware item).
I drop this between the cylinder head and the piston top and rock the engine
until I get a squeeze on the flat stock.
You might need to rock the car backwards at this time to drop the Feeler
fully in.
In most cases you'll be able to complete the compression stroke if you deck
height is set properly. But in general you'll feel the "Feeler" bind between
the piston and cylinder head both before and after TDC position.
You can take note of your timing mark then and mark that as TDC with a drop
of paint. (I use white out or liquid paper).
If you have help you can lay under the van and have them rock the van while
you're touching and evaluating exactly when the rockers develop free play at
the stems.
If you do this right you only need remove the #1 spark plug.

Stan Wilder
Engine Ceramics
214-352-4931
www.engineceramics.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Nate Saylor" <nates@IMPULSE.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2005 4:01 PM
Subject: Valve clearance not at tdc?

> Bob's method.  Once the lifters were pumped up I zerod them.  but the
> odd thing is that when I zero passenger rear (I go by the rotor
> location, coupled with the marks on the pully) and move to the passenger
> front (next in line counter clockwise), I get clearance on one of the
> passenger rear valves.  Why is this???  Am I going in the wrong order?
> I'm thinking this is why I have so much noise in my valve train.
>
> -Nate
>
>
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