If the stud is intact, but rusty, first try a metric
stud puller.  Any autoparts store should have them.
It will fit a 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet wrench.  Use a little
bit of heat on the studs before trying to remove.  A
plumbing torch will work just fine.  Don't make it
glow, just heat it up.

Replace with good quality bolts or upgrade to 316
stainless.

Good luck.

dylan
--- Wesley Alden Pegden <wes@CS.UCHICAGO.EDU> wrote:
> Hi all...
> I emailed the list a few weeks ago about my upcoming
> intentions to remove the exhaust studs from the
> front end of my engine (they are rusted to the point
> of uselessness) in the process of changing my
> exhaust pipes.  (I've already removed the rear
> pipes: they were bolted on, instead of being
> attached with studs).  After looking through the
> archives, I have some questions.
>
> The simplest, most promising suggestion I found was
> to weld a good nut onto the the stud, and then use
> this to grip the stud for removal.   Unfortunately,
> I have no experience with welding.  What kind of
> setup would I need?  Would this be a significant
> purchase?  Would welding in cramped quarters under
> the vanagon be difficult?
>
> Another question... although I hate paying other
> people to work on cars for me... how much could I
> expect to pay someone else to do this?  For that
> matter... Can I drive the car (i.e. to a shop), with
> some of the exhaust pipes removed from the engine?
> It would certainly be loud... but would it be bad as
> well?  (with all those hot gases in the engine
> compartment...?)
>
> Thanks for any help!
> Wes
>

Dylan Friedman

insyncro@yahoo.com

91 Syncro Westy GL
91 Syncro L
90 Carat
89 Wolfsburg GL

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