Bah. I just was double reading (well, I've read it a few more than
twice) the Propex manual. They recommend using 8mm (not 9mm) propane
lines. 8mm is 5/16 or thereabouts, which is not a commonly used size in
the USA (1/4 and 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 are the common US copper sizes...not
all used for propane of course.)

On Apr 27, 2005, at 12:43 AM, Kim Brennan wrote:

> Well, Karl is once again mentioning he's got Propex heaters to sell.
>
> I finally got around to running a copper propane line to mine. So I
> figured a few notes were in order.
>
>
> #1 If you are used to removing your rear bench on your Westy, then you
> might not want to install the Propex heater in the most logical
> spot...under the rear bench, because once it is there, you probably
> won't ever pull the seat again.
>
> #2 The fittings that came on the Propex are a compression fitting.
> That's not the US standard, which uses flare fittings for propane. It's
> easy to switch.
>
> #3 I've see references to folks that ran 1/4" copper tube. The Propex
> manual says to use 9mm. 9mm is .354 inches. So 3/8 inch copper is
> actually closer (and is what I used.) However bending 3/8 copper is a
> LOT harder than 1/4...3/8 is pretty much what Westfalia used for the
> existing copper lines, FWIW.
>
> #4 Copper is flexible and will accept a bit of bending in order to run
> it through the cabinets to the Propex heater. However, you should be
> aware that you'll need sufficient space at the gas end to get the
> fitting in place. I almost didn't give myself enough room.  I got 10
> feet of copper. I had about 3 inches extra at the end. Depending on how
> you want to run the copper lines, you might want to get a few more
> feet.
>
> #5 Fittings. Propane places won't sell you the parts (Liability I
> guess). You can get the parts at Home Depot. You can get the flare
> tools, copper tube, fittings and bending tools there too. Oh, and a
> pipe cutter.
>
> #6 Splicing into the existing lines. I chose to splice into the
> existing lines (I connected to the fridge side for convienence, where
> as I probably would have preferred to connect to the stove side.)
> You'll need a Tee fitting with flare connections, 3 flare style caps,
> pipe cutter and a good eye for guessing how much of the existing line
> to remove to accomodate the tee (and still connect up to the existing
> appliances.) Remember to put the flare caps on the copper tube BEFORE
> you flare the tube...One the propex side you'll need a 3/8 adapter to
> flare adapter another flare cap.
>
> I spliced into my fridge line essentially at the last straight section
> before the final bend to the fridge connection. There was just barely
> enough room to get the cap on and still flare the tube for the tee. The
> copper tube I ran to the heater went down from the Tee fitting to the
> base of the cabinet. A 90 degree turn to the rear through the gap at
> the back of the fridge/stove cabinet towards the next cabinet over.
> Then along the back of that cabinet to the gap in the divider (I had to
> remove the divider while running the copper line. The divider was
> reinstalled afterwards.) Then another bend to a hole to the left of the
> electrical outlet which leads into the area below the rear bench. Then
> along the front of the area under the rear bench to the heater
> (installed on the passenger side compartment under the rear bench.)
>
> Tomorrow I'll polish up my installation by installing clamps on the
> tube to hold in place. Hopefully I'll get a chance during this coming
> weekend's camping to try it out.