Adam be sure to e-mail me when you are pulling the closet, I have some
advice, Bentley 76.14 is kind of hard to follow.

Chris

On 7/13/05, Adam Thacker <adam@thacker.ca> wrote:
> The Tint place I talked to said they need clear access to the area behind
> the closet. "if I wanted a good job" So I have to wait until winter to
> remove the closet or parts of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf Of
> Christopher Gronski
> Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 12:21 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Window Tint Recommendations
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> Do they need access to the back of the windows to tint (ie: is it done from
> inside out or outside in?). Just curious as the timing of putting my closet
> back in will depend on it. Or alternatively is it easier for them to do with
> the windows out (as four of them currently are).
> 
> Chris
> 
> On 7/13/05, John Rodgers <inua@charter.net> wrote:
> > Chris,
> >
> > My son runs a tint shop and uses only the very best of films. Says it
> > doesn't pay the customer or him to handle cheap film.  He  told me
> > today that currently there are only two films he recommends  - Llumar
> > metalized films (his low end film - but it's a high end film on the
> > market) and Pinnacle CP film by Formula One -his high end film for his
> > shop.
> >
> > Llumar metalized film has, as one would expect,  excellent  UV
> > rejection which reduces the heat,  but has a bit of a shiny finish -
> > not mirror finish, but shiny enough.
> >
> >  Pinnacle is a ceramic film and does it's work by UV absorption. It
> > does not have the shine on the surface the same way the metalized
> > films do.
> >
> > The metalized films have been around for quite a while and have been
> > very good, displacing virtually all the older films for general use.
> > They have the disadvantage of being incompatible with the new
> > electronics finding their way into the newer automobiles, and in the
> > retrofitted electronics going into older automobiles.  The metal in
> > the films interferes with transmission and reception.
> >
> > Enter the CP (ceramic product) films.........!
> >
> > CP films (Pinnacle - a top brand) are the newest films available. They
> > function by absorbing rather than reflecting UV. They do not interfere
> > with the new electronics, and perform at a higher level in dealing
> > with the heat issues. Though I have not found in the literature
> > anything to support my view, I believe that the CP films offer some
> > insulative effect in that ceramic transmits heat energy with less
> > efficiency than metal. I suspect that one would be better off with a
> > CP film vs a metal film  for that reason alone, much less the
> > excellent UV absorption.
> >
> > The only drawback to the CP films is the price. They are typically
> > slightly under 2-1/2 times as expensive as metal films.
> >
> > In any case, I would suggest that you get all windows except the
> > windshield tinted. By law the windshield cannot be tinted, and
> > passenger and driver window must meet a certain light transmission
> > standard, and that varies state to state. But virtually every state
> > has a transmission standard. In virtually all cases, the passenger and
> > driver windows will be lighter in appearance than the other windows,
> > as a result of the law. Usually you can go as dark as you wish on all
> > windows except the passenger and driver window. The windshield must
> > remain clear, excepting a sunshade strip that may be installed across
> > the top of the windshield. That too varies state to state, in terms of
> > how much glass can be covered.
> >
> > Formula One films and Llumar films both carry national warranties and
> > the companies are really good at making good on any film failures.
> > Good tint shops will have in-house warranties as well that will take
> > care of any labor charges that might accrue if they did the tint
> > installation for you. Be sure to ask about that.
> >
> > I would suggest that you get that rear window tinted because it is a
> > huge heat generator. I had all my windows done, including the rear
> > hatch glass, and I've never had a lick of trouble with the defroster
> > strips on the glass.
> >
> > I personally think it a mistake to use a really dark tint on the van
> > windows as it interferes with clarity of vision. I'm interested in
> > reducing heat and glare, but I still like sufficient light to see well
> > through any glass while seated in the driver sat. This is especially
> > true at night. But to each his own.
> >
> > There is one final trick that can be done that will help glare - both
> > day and  night - IF you can get the tint shop to do it. Of course you
> > are on your own on this one. The inside of the front windshield can be
> > tinted with a near clear metal tint. It is so neutral as not to be
> > "noticeably" dark, but it helps dramatically with glare. As I said,
> > patently illegal, but boy what a difference.
> >
> > Anyway .....
> >
> >
> > IMHO, a good tint job is worth it's weight.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > John Rodgers
> > 88 GL Driver
> >
> >
> >
> > Christopher Gronski wrote:
> >
> > >I am considering tinting my windows and I wanted people's opinion on
> > >two things:
> > >
> > >1) Type and brand of tint, what have you used that you like? I am
> > >leaning towards the sort of mirrored look, but I'm still open to
> > >suggestions.
> > >
> > >2) Which windows to tint? I am considering only tinting the side
> > >windows (middle and rear) and leaving the cab area and the rear
> > >window untinted. I'd like your opinon on this as well
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >Chris
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> 
>