I would also add that once you do get the bolt out and remove the cover,
do yourself a favor and cut the cover so that hole where this bolt goes
through becomes a hook instead (saw this suggestions on somebody's
website - don't remember who). This way once you remove the
easy-to-reach- rear bolt holding the cover, you only need to loosen and
not remove the troublesome bolt on the exhaust in the future.

In *V*olkswagen *W*esty Love, Light, & Laughter,
Jay
'87 Westy
Springfield, Missouri

Ken Lewis wrote:

>Ben,
>  Your trepidation is well warranted. The archives are filled with tales of woe
>about broken off exhaust studs. Since you were able to partly back out a stud I
>would then soak it with a penetrating oil and screw it back in. Gently repeat
>until it is out.
>  Find a parts store, preferably that has a lot of air cooled VW stuff, and
>purchase some new studs and 12mm _copper_ exhaust nuts. The air cooled
>engines use the same size as the WBX. These are easier to remove the next time
>since they do not rust. Also pick up a tube of anti-seize compound. Home Depot
>also carries some metric hardware. As a last resort you may have to buy bolts
>and cut off the heads.
>  I do not recommend using bolts here simply because you do not know if it is
>threaded all the way in. With studs you know  you are using all the threads (in
>the head) since it bottoms out. In the past I used a bolt, only to find it
>missing, along with half the threads in the head!
>  Also pick up an installation kit for oil gauges plus metric adapters. This kit
>contains the tiny nylon tubing. I added some protection by sliding pieces of
>fuel line over it in ares that might chafe. I mounted the sender near the coil
>using two existing holes and a "U" clamp used in TV antenna work.
>  I retained the original low pressure switch by adding a tee. There are some
>picture at http://neksiwel.20m.com/ .
>
>Good Luck
>Ken Lewis
>
>
>

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