In a message dated 2/19/2004 1:52:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
psavage@MEXCONNECT.COM writes:

Greetings from Oaxaca City, Oaxaca Mexico!

The MexiCali  Rose--with fresh fuel filter and new spark plugs--valiantly 
pulled miles and  miles of steep grades and high-altitude switchbacks between 
Guadalajara and  Oaxaca.  Not once did her engine overheat.  About a month ago we 
 arrived San Felipe del Agua, a small town on a mountainside overlooking 
Oaxaca  City.

Oaxaca City, the elegant state capitol, at 1550 meters altitude  and a 
population of 255,000 people lies in the heart of the Valles  Centrales--an arid, 
rocky region--where the Sierra Madre del Sur converges  with the Sierra Madre de 
Oaxaca.

I am happily camped on the  mountainside property of an American expat who 
owns a mescal distillery;  �Scorpion� is his brand and each bottle contains a 
real scorpion.  I`ve  tried Doug�s mescal and have to admit it stings going 
down!  The MexiCali  Rose is hunkered down in a big field of blue agave.  To the 
north and  very close by, rugged green mountain peaks form a dramatic 
backdrop--with  panoramic views over the city to east, south, and west.  Sunsets and  
sunrises are spectacular during this warm, dry season.  Later, in summer,  the 
mountainsides and valleys will be covered in a profusion of green grass,  
wildflowers, and blooming cactus.  But now, during winter, it is bone  dry. 

It is (relatively) quiet her, for this IS Mexico!  But every  night my sleep 
is disturbed by howling, yowling, growling, barking, snarling  packs of 
thin-ribbed roaming dog packs.  This is nothing compared to the  racket the burros 
make--bringing to mind bull elephants in rut.  And  water is in short supply 
during the dry season, but we make do.  I wash  my clothes in buckets with the 
aid of my indispensable Mexican toilet  plunger.  

Oaxaca�s population includes 15 indigenous groups--each  with its own 
language (tho most speak some Spanish).  Pre-Hispanic  culture reached great 
heights--rivaling those of central Mexico.  The  Zapotecs, ruling from their 
magnificent hilltop city of Monte Alban,  controlled much of Oaxaca by conquest, 
peaking between 500 and 700 AD.   Today Oaxaca�s indigenous peoples are the driving 
force behind the state�s  fine handicrafts and booming art scene.

The state of Oaxaca has  spectacularly varied landscapes and biodiversity 
exceeding any other Mexican  state.  Besides it�s rocky, arid regions, cloud 
forests and huge stands  of pine and oak gown in the highlands--while lower lying 
areas and  Pacific-facing slopes support deciduous tropical forest.

In several  days I depart for Oaxaca�s Pacific coast, where I will share a 
beach house  with friends from NY.  For two weeks we will snorkel the coral 
reefs off  the many delightful little palm-fringed bays along the coast from 
Huatulco to  Mazunte.  There�s bound to be good fresh seafood and cold cerveza for 
a  song under the palapa roofs of the little beachside restaurants.  Oh, I  am 
ready for this!  

While here in Oaxaca�s Valles Centrales I�ve  visited many of the Indian 
markets and villages in search of fine handicrafts  of the region.  The work of 
the weavers from the village of Teotitlan si  world famous and, after much time 
spent visiting the homes of many of the  weaving families, have bought a 
gorgeous big alpaca rug woven in the classic  geometric designs of the region.  

My Mishap: A week ago, while  visiting the ruins of the temples of the 
ancient city of Mitla, I suffered  injuries when, just as I was about to descend a 
steep stone staircase, I was  bumped hard by someone's backpack and sent 
hurtling into space. I careened,  off-balance and wrenching my body violently in an 
effort to regain my  footing.  Finally, I fell hard, face down at the bottom 
of the stone  steps.  No bones were broken, but my wrist is sprained.  

The  worst of the pain came the next day, when my back and neck went to into 
spasms  and it was too painful to walk.  Fortunately, I was directed to a  
wonderful physical-therapist who discovered I�d whacked my hip out of it�s  
joint, among other things.  She put me back together with a combination  of 
traction, acupressure massage, and ultra sound treatments.  Today I  hiked down the 
mountainside into town with no trouble, tho my arm and elbow  bruises have now 
turned a gruesome shade of green.  But I feel almost  good as new and ready to 
hit the beach!

By the way, I�ve met quite a  few Westies in Mexico this winter.  In fact, 
David and Linda arrived to  camp today in their �85 Westie from Wisconsin.  I�ve 
seen more Westies  this year than any year previous, so if any of you are 
dreaming about �doing�  Mexico: �Andele!  Do it!
I�ll try to report from the Oaxaca coast  snorkeling adventure, if I can 
manage to loose my grip on that bottle of ice  cold cerveza, that is.

Best wishes to all you, especially my old List  friends, if any of you are 
still out there...
I have my Vanagon List  subscription set NO MAIL while traveling, so if you 
care to drop a line use my  travel email address: psavage@mexconnect.com

Phaedra & MexiCali  Rose
�85 Wolfsburg Westie