If the plate is off, just replace it. The aluminum pump body is much
more likely to wear than the steel plate. Make sure you do not use the
wrong gasket!

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
Of Randy Bergum
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2005 6:06 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: REPLACING OIL PUMP

The lapping concept is right on.  We use a thick plate of glass and 600
grit wet/dry sandpaper to prep phospher-bronze organ reeds.  Takes out
surface imperfections like nothing else, and it works with all sizes,
from
3/4" to 8" reeds.  Of course the reeds are not flat to begin with, and
you
need to use "English" while drawing them across the paper to avoid
making a
flat spot.

For an oil pump cover, you might want to start with a coarser grit and
work
up to 600 or 1,000, and like polishing a telescope lens, rotate the
piece
early and often to randomize the wear patterns.

Randy Bergum
1990 Carat
Fullerton, CA

> [Original Message]
> From: George Goff <THX0001@AOL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Date: 9/13/2005 6:23:43 AM
> Subject: Re: REPLACING OIL PUMP
>
> In a message dated 9/12/05 4:01:44 PM, SDeMocko@FDSMFG.COM writes:
>
> << At warm idle I have just above Zero and at
> 4000 rpm I have about 18 psi.  I was wondering if any one has done a
> write up on replacing the oil pump. >>
>
> Before you pull the pump, you could try lapping the pump cover.  The
cover might have some
> grooves worn into its inner face from the action of the pump
impellers.
While
> a lapping plate is nice to use, you do not need anything elaborate for
the
> lapping other than a dead flat surface to work against.  A machine
tool
table
> with some wet-or-dry abrasive stuck to it will work.  Even a piece of
plate
> glass, the thicker the better, and some valve grinding compound will
get
you to
> where you want to be.
>
> George
>