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Subject:Re: cv joint/boot and idle/ac questions
From:Roger Sisler
Date:Thu, 13 Oct 2005 12:01:16 -0400

Hello again. California import parts has the seal and cap you need. They
are a list vendor. If you call them, ask for Gary.He knows vanagons and the
parts that you need.He will even give you the details on the replacement of
these parts ,with cheer.These are inexpensive parts. The snap ring type
fastner I talked about is called a circlip. You need circlip plyers. The
trans seals and the cv axels both have these circlips.Your trans will not
stop leaking without the new seals.When you replace these seals, trans
fluid will pour out,if yu have any lift inside.Either jack up the side of
the van that you are working on , or drain the fluid first.Also, after the
drive flange has been removed, there is a  black plastic device that also
needs to be removed, so you can get at the seals. It is attached with 2
phillips head screws. They may be very tight and you may need a impact
screw driver to get them out(advance auto parts $12). Not sure, but I think
the new cv joints need to be pressed onto the old axel shaft(gas station).I
purchaced a rebuild complete axel assembely from Pep Boys for $95.Works
good.No press work involved. Also, before you grease the new axel, put 2
zip ties through each joint to stabilize the joint and keep the balls from
falling out.After you install the axel, and get 2 bolts started , cut and
remove the ties. Then tighten the joint bolts.Draining the fluid may be
difficult. Access to the drain plug requires a specific type of wrench. I
dont have one, or know where to get one.I used a 17mm bolt that is about 1
inch long. I jammed 2 or 3 nuts onto this bolt and insert the bolt head
into the drain plug hole and then wrench out the plug.Still very
difficult.These repairs are alot of work, but the results are satisfying
and effective. New mobil 1 trans oil is an excellent final touch.The trans
will shift like new with this lubricant.