Many Thanks for all the feedback.  It was the connector between the oil
pressure sender and the wiring harness.  I didn't realise that this was
the failure mode of the switch.  Quite a relief, this list has been most
helpfull!
David
87 Syncro Westy

>>> <THX0001@aol.com> 10/30/05 9:59 PM >>>

In a message dated 10/30/05 10:23:30 PM, shepherdsond@METRO.DST.OR.US
writes:

<< now that it is finally back together I have another alarming problem.
The
engine started first time and ran great EXCEPT that the buzzer and oil
light
come on almost as soon as I get the rpms above about 2500 - there are
no oil
leaks.  It is also very noisy but it sounds like lifters to me which
would not
be unexpected.  Could I have ruined the engine when the seal went (it
may have
been a couple of minutes before I noticed it and stopped and I was
driving
downhill at fairly low rpm's with a cool engine) and would this be the
most
likely symptom. Or could I have done something wrong that would cause
this. >>

1/ Make certain that the conductor is connected to the dynamic oil
pressure
switch (1.8 bar) at the nose of the engine.

2/ If it is connected, check the oil pressure.

3/ If the oil pressure is kosher, go to the hassle of changing out the
dynamic oil pressure switch.  You'll need either a skeletal deep socket
or (this is
probably easier) to remove the crank pulley.

4/ If the sound is like clacking from hell and not a knock, it is the
lifters.  Pour some Marvel Mystery Oil into the crankcase and go for a
drive.  The
engine will start purring within ten to twenty miles.

5/ Whenever your engine puked its oil, did the oil warning light go on?
The
seal doesn't see engine oil pressure so as long as you caught it before
the
engine was bone dry you should just go to sleep and have pleasant dreams
about
Angelina Jolie.

George