> The factory wiring actually does a very poor job of supporting even stock
> lights. The current flow from the alternator through undersized wiring to the
> battery, then to the fuse box, ignition switch, headlight switch, back to the
> fuse box for each filament makes for a lot voltage drop. The bad headlight
> grounding makes things even worse. Typical voltage at the lights can be as low
> as 10.5 volts with the hi-beams on. Not good for lighting. Putting 4 100 watt
> lamps on that circuit will fry the headlight switch and ignition switch in
> short order. At this point, almost half the alternator capacity is used for
> lighting. Add the radiator fan on high speed with the AC or heater fans in
> winter and you have some issues here.
>
> To get the most out of lighting, the wiring from the alternator to the fuse
> box needs upgrading. Then the relays should be added to get that connection
> directly to the lamps.The factory uses individual fuses for each filament so
> that if one shorts out, the fuse blows and the remaining head lamp stays
> lighted. American cars do not use separate fuses. They use a self reseting
> circuit breaker which creates the flashing light syndrome when a lamp shorts
> out. The next step to brighter lights is to shorten the ground wires tot he
> lights. Connect them directly to the sheet metal near the headlight mountings.
> Of course the real problem Vanagon lights is the optics. Brighter bulbs really
> only give you more bad light.
>
> Dennis
>
> Personally, I do not think 100 watt lamps are a good choice.
>

Saved this email from Dennis awhile back & now have installed Ron's Euro
grille & extra lites, except for the actual wiring.  There were no
instructions w/ the grille kit/lites, my Bentley says nada about these extra
lites, & I am not sure how to proceed w/ wiring them up, based on above
email & the additional lites.

Help?

Tom-follows instruction well, when they are available.