The wires have only been bare for a day... just so I could test.

Chris

On 12/26/05, Al and Sue Brase <albeeee@mchsi.com> wrote:
> Fuse. It may check good but is loose or partly open  It probably burned out
> because of the bare spot. Wires hardly ever break except at door openings or
> other places where there is movement.
> Al Brase
>
>
> Christopher Gronski wrote:
> The brake wire is bare 6" or so from the taillight, just before it
hits this
> new trailer harness. I'm probing there and grounding to the
alternator. It
> drops to zero once the petal is released. I'm going to
try it your way
> tomorrow at first light (as well as checking the
switches and the junction
> box).

Chris

On 12/25/05, mark drillock <drillock@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Where exactly are you putting each of the meter probes?
Does it drop to zero
> volts when the pedal is released?

The brake switches are doubled up for
> safety. It is unlikely they would
both be bad. The problem is far more
> likely to be in the left taillight
area or the engine compartment wiring
> junction box. There are 2 round 7
pin connectors in the box. One of these
> has all the wires for the rear
lights. The brakelight wire is black/red
> stripe.

Using a straight pin, push the pin into the wire. Push through
> the
insulation and aim for the center where the metal is. Measure
> the
voltage on the pin while someone pushes the brake pedal down hard.
> Put
one probe on the pin and the other probe on bare metal ground in
> the
engine compartment. On the same round connector are 2 wires that
> are
grey with a stripe. These should have 12 volts when the headlight
> switch
is on. Push the pin into one of these to verify your test setup. If
> you
can't find 12 volts on one of these then you are doing something
> wrong
and not finding 12 volts on the brake wire won't mean
> much.

Mark

Christopher Gronski wrote:

> Right now I'm only getting 1 volt at the brake lights with the pedal
> depressed.

Chris

>

>
>