You're basically right about everything. You can get the bearings from
several list vendors.

And you're right that you can measure your setup and replicate it, but
you must be comparing apples to apples in your measurements. For
instance, not all "knuckle" ends are going to be cast or swaged with
the same diameter, so use the center of the end as a place to start
your measurements. From there, measure to the first thread on your tie
rod, or better yet a file mark you put on there, because the thread is
going to measure differently from the center of the eye or knuckle as
they call it depending on how the shaft the thread is on is rotated.
Write down your measurements, and don't try to measure to the last
thread visible under the screw-on part of the steering because all
castings may not be the same length. Do it as outlined above.

There is a flat spot on the steering link so you can get a wrench on it.

You can use a pickle fork style bearing puller and a sledge hammer even
without the pickle fork, but for less than $25 you can get a puller
from your local auto parts store that will do the job right and without
risk and you will have it for the rest of your life.

Jim

On Jan 18, 2006, at 1:30 PM, Dave Chameides wrote:

> I just found out that the seals on my tie rod ends are blown and the
> goop is leaking out.  I'm wondering how hard it is to replace these
> things on an 82 1.6 diesel.  Looking at it it just seems like it
> screws off on the "van" end and then bolts off on the "wheel" end.
> I'm assuming that I would have to mark and pay attention to how far
> in the pieces are screwed on for alignment purposes, but other than
> that, is this a complicated procedure that I can screw up (no pun
> intended)?  Also, where is the best place to get the replacement
> parts on line?
>
> dave
>