Hi Mike,

    You can replace the seals with mixed results. The problem is that most
seal failure is caused by wear between the shaft (rack) and bushings. A worn
shaft will try to "crawl" away from the pinion. When the seals get hard and
can't flex enough to conform to the shaft, they crack or just leak. Age and
this wear is the cause of the seal failure in most cases.
    If you replace the seals, and don't address the bushings, pinion, rack
slack, after "X" amount of time, the seals will fail again.
    To check your bushings, at full turn of the steering wheel, one way and
then the other and in the straight ahead position. Remove the boots at the
housing ends, apply pressure on the shaft end up and down in all three
positions. If worn you will see the shaft move in the bushings. The more
slack, the sooner the seals will start leaking again.
    The bushings and shaft are replaceable, but the rack, or "shaft" if worn
it very expensive. The rebuilders replace the bushings with a bushing that
has an oversized hole in it. Then the shaft is "turned" undersize, and fit
to the bore. Its like getting a crankshaft turned and using oversize
bearings.
    There are several special tools required that are expensive. Plus even
if you have the tools, to do the job right, in the long run you end up
spending as much or more that a rebuilt unit.
    You will need to set the toe in after. Spec,1/8 inch positive toe.

Howard

Has anyone rebuilt the rack using one of these seal kits?

Would I be better off just replacing the rack with a rebuilt one?

Does replacing the rack require a front end alignment?