That's interesting. Wonder how your attachments made it through to the list?

Cya,
Robert

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Walters" <sam.cooks@VERIZON.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: gas tank; fixing Syncro tank sender

> Mark,
>
> Several folks say you can do the Syncro fuel sender without removing the
> tank, etc. if you just go in by the left rear tire - after taking it off.
>
> See the attached files.  I will have to attack this soon also as mine
> was intermittent - mostly off, and broke off when I was trying to remove
> it and clean up the connections.  Looks like the inside of the
> connection was all rusted up.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Sam
>
> --
> Sam Walters
> Baltimore, MD
>
> 89 Syncro GL, Zetec Inside
> 85 Westy Weekender
> 85 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbodiesel - to become veggie oil powered
>
> All incoming and outgoing email scanned by
> automatically updated copy of Norton AntiVirus.
>
>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

>   From: mark drillock <drillock@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re:  syncro fuel tank sending gauge hangup
>
> The sender is a simple design, not much to go wrong. There is a plastic
> float at the end of a very long thin rod arm. The other end of the rod
> has a short arm on the other side of the pivot. The short arm wipes the
> windings of a rheostat. The only thing that comes to mind as a cause of
> your problem is the metal tabs that are bent into position to act as
> limit stops for the rod arm travel. Perhaps the rod is just missing the
> stop edge of the top tab and then getting wedged along the side of the
> tab instead. The weight and mechanical advantage of the log end of the
> rod/float is so great that I don't see how the rheostat part could be
> involved.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> Richard A Jones wrote:
>
>
>>>Going to Syncro Safari last summer, I wanted
>>>to have a full tank, so I did the "squeeze/click"
>>>routine for quite a while to get the tank
>>>really FULL.
>>>
>>>Later, I noticed that the gauge wasn't going down,
>>>and indeed was stuck even "fuller" than normal--
>>>a little above the full line.
>>>
>>>      I let the tank run down, and figured some
>>>of the rough roads would shake it loose.  Sure enough,
>>>after coming over Cinnamon Pass, I noticed in Lake
>>>City that the gauge was working.
>>>
>>>      Well, late last fall it hung up on "above
>>>full" again, and wouldn't give up.  I finally
>>>decided to go after it and removed the charcoal
>>>cannister.  I was dismayed to see so many hoses
>>>in the way of trying to remove the sender plate.
>>>Instead, I took a piece of scrap wood and a rubber
>>>mallet and tapped on the plate.  Second tap and
>>>"sproing" I heard the sender float arm drop.  My
>>>gauge is working again.
>>>
>>>      Can anyone with a syncro sender at hand
>>>see if there is some "design feature" that would
>>>allow the arm to hang up (pun) in the UP position?
>>>My only sender is in my tank.   ;-)
>>>
>>>                      Richard A Jones
>>>                      Bo

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

> To replace Syncro sender:
>
> - Jack up van and remove tire for additional work room.
>
> - Remove charcoal canister
>
> - Clean away dirt in the sender area
>
> - Remove sender wires
>
> - Lube sender nuts
>
> - Remove nuts, if rusted remove and break off nuts.
>
> - If studs are broken, go to home depot and buy new SS hardware and tack
> weld or JB weld new studs in place.
>
> - R&R sender with new  O rings in the correct position.
>
> - Reinstall wires, canister, and tire
>
> - Test and have cold beer.
>
> TGIF,
> Dave
>