I think it has all been pretty much said about the bolts. Keep the 12
point ones, but get the right tool for tightening. Get some more grease,
pull those puppies then regrease. This is a learning experience, and you
don't want to have to go back in there again. Do it right the first time.

If you clean everything well, when you put the bolts back  in, and bring
the torque back up to spec, be sure you torque the bolts opposite each
other as you go. Snug them all down with a wrench, the torque one, turn
the axle 180 degrees, torque the next one. Then turn 90 degrees and
torque one, then turn 180 degrees and torque one., and so on. When you
are done, you really should not have to use anything on the threads to
lock them in place. You could, but it really isn't necesary when the
torque job is done proper and to spec.

The one thing you might want to do after the work is complete, is fill
the bolt head with a really heavy grease or wax or similar. This keeps
the crud out of the recess in the head and is easy to clean out for
maintenance in the future.
Regards,

John Rodgers
88 GL Driver x2

Stephen DeMocko wrote:

>Volks,
>
>Two weeks ago I installed a set of those $99 buy it now CV Joint set
>from E-Bay.  They seam it be of good quality, came with everything,
>grease new socket head cap screws, boots and all.  Now I have run into a
>problem.  The bolts keep working loose.  I don't know what to torque
>them to.  Does anyone know?  Tonight I plan on retightening for the
>second time, but this time I was going the clean up the threads real
>well and locktite the heck out of them.  I didn't use locktite yet, was
>I suppose to?
>I also wonder if I should put back the old 12 point bolts, I kind of
>like them being regular Allen hexs.  Now that the joints have loosened
>twice I have thrown out a lot of the new grease.  I have seen a syringe
>kit for relubing the joints, does anyone remember who offers that kit?
>Thanks in advance as I always appreciate the knowledge and advice.
>
>Stephen DeMocko
>('85 Westy Luci)
>
>
>
>