Hey

How important are those 2 hole washer things?  I ask because I just found
mine on the bottom of the solvent tank, and I'd rather not take my axles off
again.

Raymond

On 4/28/06, Mike Bucchino <mbucchino@charter.net> wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
>   'Triple-square' and 'hex' are not the proper terms used for VW's
> internal-wrenching bolts.  It "6-point' or '12-point'.  Here's how to
> break
> torque on a stubborn, rusted or rounded-out VW cv bolt regardless of the
> fact that it's a 6 or 12 point type.  For inner cv's, put the vehicle up
> on
> jackstands and make sure that the tires are clear enough to rotate freely
> (no e-brake on either!).  Now, rotate the tire to a spot where it's
> comfortable to get at the offending cv bolt.  Place a BF screwdriver (or
> prybar) close to the axle above one adjacent bolt and below another
> adjacent
> bolt so that the forces of loosening the bolt will be opposed by this
> lever.
> This will prevent the axle from rotating while you're applying as much
> torque as necessary to break loose the offending bolt.  Now, use the
> proper
> 3/8" drive 6 or 12 point bit tool on your breaker/ ratchet or flex handle
> if
> it's a good, clean cv bolt.  If it's a screwed-up cv bolt,  use large,
> toothy vice-grips installed as tightly as possible on the smooth outside
> of
> the cv bolt head to break torque and loosen it a bit.  Now you can finish
> removal by hand or using you special tool, as it'll spin freely now.  I've
> done this trick on Beetles, Busses, Vanagons, Rabbits, Golfs, Jettas,
> Audis,
> Porsches, etc., when drastic measures became necessary.
>
>   You're now saying, ".......but wait! That trick won't help me with the
> OUTER cv bolts on the Vanagon!" Those one's are hiding way deep inside the
> dark inner recesses of the box steel trailing arm.......... but that's
> also
> easily addressed by my OTHER secret trick.............
>   Before you jack up the van and set it on jackstands, for this minor
> surgical procedure, break the big 46MM axle nut(s) loose on the desired
> axle
> assembly (or both, if planning on doing cv boots and grease repacking
> work).
>    Can you see where this is leading?  You don't want to remove the axle
> nuts totally yet, just loosen them up so that they're free spinning and
> ready to go when the time is right.  Now, set'er up on the jackstands, as
> I
> described before, and remove all the inner cv bolts, so that you can drop
> the axle's inner cv end off of the trans axle flange.  Now, remove your
> axle
> nut completely, and slide that puppy right outta there!  Look at those
> grungy outer cv bolts, blinking cause of the bright lights in their eyes!
> Now, use the pry bar and vice-grip trick on those bad larry's, as
> necessary!
>   As a Mexican friend of mine once said,
> "No problem!!!!!! .............and if there IS a problem??????.........NO
> PROBLEM!!!!!!!"
>
> Now that you've got those thing out of there, think about the next poor
> bastard and replace the screwed-up ones with 12-points!  Unless you laying
> on the side of the road, trying to get'er home. BTDT!
>    Then, reinstall them nice and snugly with the prybar and vice-grip
> trick,
> only in reverse!  The beauty of this is that the vise-grip marks aren't
> gonna ding-up the bolts internal splines at all!  You might make a sharp
> burr that'll stick your finger, but you can file that off if you'd like.
>
> Hope this helps!
>
> Mike B.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Bange" <jbange@GMAIL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 1:52 AM
> Subject: Re: CV Bolts
>
>
> >
> >
> > So, which is considered "better"? I went by my VW dealer, and when
> > the ordered some, they came in as allen head, not triple squares.
> >
> > They had some triple squares available, but they were slightly
> > shorter (5mm maybe) and the threads didn't extend as far.
> >
>
> I'm probably imagining it, but I think I recall the triple squares people
> use actually being Porsche parts and the "official" VW part is still the
> same E-Z Strip Hex Socket it's always been? Personally, I feel better with
> the triple-squares. All mine were formerly hexies and I had some
> nerve-wracking moments pulling a couple of 'em out. Two of them were
> "pre-buggered" for me by the PO or his butcher mechanic, so I had to
> resort
> to a filed down 7mm hex driver pounded in with a hammer. Working as a
> locksmith I frequently run into rounded- or rusted-out hex socket set
> screws
> and, if they're large enough, they get replaced with a Torx.Maybe I've
> just
> been lucky, but I've never seen a Torx or similar multi-lobe fastener
> strip
> out. Just the thought of trying to remove a completely rounded hex-type CV
> bolt inside that outer hub cavity....(shudder)
>
>
> --
> John Bange
> '90 Vanagon - "Geldsauger"
>