The LED controller looks like a relay and is plugged into the relay
board above the fuse box. It will usually have a 42 or 43 on it. Yes,
they go bad. The circuit on the instrument cluster also goes bad causing
the light to go on when it should not and the gauge itself can go bad or
go out of calibration. You need to do some real trouble shooting.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
Of shawn feller
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 11:32 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: more radiator discussion. anyone have LED sender unit fail?

Doing the replace everything theory of lowering my gauge/LED temp. Next
on
the list is to replace the radiator due to flow constriction discussions
of
late. I read in Bentley there is a LED computer unit somewhere, but have
seen little in the achieve on this topic. Anyone have experience?

Got the van 6 months ago with temp gauge on 4/8 dead center for a month

Then it dropped to zero, replaced sender unit which got the gauge back
in
working order

Ever since the sender unit was replaced it has been at 6/8 with
intermittent
LED flash in stopped traffic

High/Low fan is working up front and can force flow with turning on a/c
fan
(not compressor)

Replaced gauge sender twice to double check output

Replaced thermostat

Thermal gun shows acceptable temps at thermostat housing and hoses (180
degrees F)

Can check voltage at gauges but from what I have bad voltage there often
causes low readings of the temp or fuel gauge not high.

The reason I ask about the LED box is that the LED will continue
blinking
after starting unless I hold the ignition in the accessory position for
a
bout 5 sec. then the blinking LED (test mode) will go out after
starting. If
I attempt to start it right away the LED will continue to blink. The
coolant
level sender has no affect on this no matter what I do with it and I
have
cleaned the contacts and tested both will full continuity and no
continuity.

Shawn

Ohio