I did this 2 weeks ago. A caliper rebuild is pretty easy, and I had ordered
the seals from Bus Depot, so I had what I needed. I also replaced the rubber
brake lines, rotors and bearings at the same time, as overheating the grease
will kill its lubricity. My old bearings turned out to be okay, but the
rotors were shot, and I saved myself the joy of getting the old races out of
the old rotors.

When Haynes says to use a piece of wood to catch the caliper piston, they
aren't kidding. That sucker flies out without much coaxing from compressed
air. I used a wood paint stirrer, and the second piston broke it. Upon
inspecting the cylinder bore, I saw a little ridge of rust in both calipers
on the wall of the bore that would be at the bottom. Infrequent bleeding of
the brakes leaves hydraulic fluid that traps water and invites corrosion.
That little ridge was enough to hang up the piston and cause caliper drag. I
put a little cup-shaped wire wheel of small enough diameter on my cordless
drill and carefully touched up just the ridges. It didn't take too much
effort to remove the ridge, and upon rebuilding the calipers I now have
relatively free-turning rotors except when the brakes are applied.

On 6/7/06, George Wietor <wietorg@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Van O'White's left front wheel is overheating and
> grease is leaking out.
> Pulling the caliper reveals that the bearings, rotor,
> pads, slider pins are all fine. Retracting the caliper
> piston with a C-clamp solves the problem ...until the
> next time brakes are applied....
> Should I replace the caliper? Attempt a driveway
> rebuild per Haynes? any advice respectfully and
> gratefully considered.  George in Grand Rapids.
> Pedalling to work as per usual.
>
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--
Cheers!

David McCallum
'89 Westy - "Boris"