So it turns out that I asked a couple of FAQs and didn't get any
answers. My bad! After searching the archives I first looked at that
blue wire connecting to the alternator, which WAS broken off and
fixing it took care of the warning lights. Putting the new ignition
wires in probably cured the dying at rapidly dropping rpms but it may
have been a combination of the two. Left the AFM untouched so far
(the slight rpm fluctuation is still there but not a bother really)
since she runs like new now :)

thanks again for all the feedback I got on the first post and the
lack of flames in response to the second one ;)

happy weekend!
h.

On Jun 22, 2006, at 11:23 AM, Helge Weissig wrote:

> Thanks for all the input so far! Putting in a new ignition switch did
> the trick, at least as far as the starting is concerned and I have
> not yet had the cut-out of the engine happen but haven't driven it
> far enough yet. Also, I am not sure (but certainly are optimistic)
> that the switch is to blame for the battery drain. I will take my
> volt/ohm meter to it tonight and may find out.
>
> If anyone has any idea on how to start trouble shooting the remaining
> problems, that would be great: Battery and OXS light are still on and
> the idle drops too low when I take my foot off the gas too fast. When
> cold, it also seems to fluctuate a little (which it always has, may
> be the AFM). Another bit of history: I put in a new cat 4 years ago
> and I think the OXS was swapped since then as well. As I mentioned
> below, the cat always seems to be extremely hot (except for last
> Friday). I also had a short look into the distributor cap and it does
> not look too bad. A little crusting on the contacts but otherwise
> clean. The ignition cables have not come yet, but I don't think I
> have any misfires, so I am not sure that part of the system is to
> blame for anything.
>
> thanks again for any insights you may have!
> h.