You want to block off, not bypass the heater loop.

Dennis

----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Demarest <tim.demarest@POBOX.COM>
Date: Friday, June 30, 2006 4:11 pm
Subject: Other stuff to check for rust-out (was  Coolant pipes replacement)

> I decided to re-post this with a new subject, since the original
> topic has
> wandered off from practical tips into a highly technical
> discussion of
> various replacement pipes...
>
> At 05:41 PM 6/26/2006 -0400, Roger Sisler wrote:
> >Lastly, if you have power steering, corrosion is about to make a
> hole in
> >one of those lines too. Maybe replace these , at the same time.If
> you drop
> >the tank, maybe put new gaskets in to reseal it.
>
> ...and while you have your gas tank out of the way, and you are
> under there
> anyway, take a good look at your brake lines, and your clutch line
> (if you
> have a manual tranny). All these lines are factory steel, and all
> can rust
> through. They seem to last a few years longer than the big coolant
> pipes,but if you live in a climate that rusts one, it is rusting
> them all.
>
> My westy came already retrofitted with the non-metallic coolant
> pipes, but
> my factory P/S and clutch lines have both rusted through... I
> replaced the
> brake lines before a rust-through (just barely, judging by how
> ridiculouslyeasy it was to break the old ones as I removed 'em).
>
> Oh, yeah... those heater hoses are probably pretty well shot too
> (I'm still
> taking chances on those, but I carry the parts to bypass the
> heater loop
> inside the engine compartment and spare coolant at all times).
>
> Frank Condelli sells an excellent hydraulic hose replacement for
> the P/S
> lines, I used copper-nickel alloy lines for the brakes (from
> http://fedhillusa.net).
>
> The clutch line was replaced with a dealer part... after many
> calls and a
> couple of in-person visits, I gave up on finding a hydraulic shop
> in the
> greater Baltimore area that could bubble flare a 6mm line.
>
> Tim
>