If I connect the voltmeter to the NEG side of the coil and the points
are open, I get 12V.

If I connect the voltmeter to the NEG side of the coil and the points
are closed, I get nothing.

If I disconnect the coil from the distributor while the points are held
open and then check the volts from the coil to ground, i do again get
12V. (I dont even know why I checked that.)

1. The points are almost brand new (few days old, after motor rebuild) -
I don't see any pitting or problems on the surface. 2. Got out the
feeler gauge, turned motor till points were full open, then set the gap
to .016
3. What is the ground lug? Is this different from the wire that goes
from the distributor to the NEG side of the coil?

I replaced the coil earlier today, and im not sure if it gets warm
(would it get warm when just sitting there with the ignition in the ON
position? I can check, about how long would it take to get warm if it
was going to and if it does, what does that mean?)

thanks for any tips, im pretty in the dark after mulling it over further.

chris

jon wrote:
> Looks like your points are stuck open, which means either:
>
> 1) Bad (corroded, etc) points: replace
> 2) Grossly misadjusted points
> 3) Ground lug for points is disconnected.
>
> The points should show 0 volts until they are open for a short period
> (firing). Then, you should see 12 V. If they show 12 V all the time,
> something is wrong with the points (that circuit is open)
>
> Question: does your coil get warm? Probably not, since the ground never
> sees ground.
>
>
>
>
>> ok, still no spark unfortunately.
>>
>> The starter turns just fine, plenty of juice.
>> Had partner crank motor over to check spark from coil, but nothing is
>> there.
>>
>> 1. checked voltage from negative coil to ground, 12V.
>> 2. cranked engine until points were open, then checked negative coil to
>> ground, still 12V when points are open.
>>
>>