If you're going to use Duracool, why go to all that bother and switch to
134a first?  Duracool is made up of butane, isobutane and propane.  I'd just
cut out the branded middleman and run straight propane and isobutane -- much
cheaper, and it cools quite well.  YMMV

On 8/3/06, John Rodgers <inua@charter.net> wrote:
>
> I have had this dilema myself, as I am getting ready to rebuild my
> system using a stock compressor. I have decided to stick with the R12,
> or at least one of the R12 look-alikes - Duracool or some other. To use
> a refigerant that is not R12 nor R134a, you must first have your rig
> converted to R134a, then change it to the new R12 substitute. You must
> go through the R134a stage to get to a Duracool system or other like
> setup. And the system must be thoroughly flushed between changes.
>
> I think I saw somewhere that if you go for a duracool or like
> refrigerant, the goal is to wind up with a R134a valve and a R12 valve.
> So you would have at the start 2 - R12 valves, next you would have two
> R134a valves, then when you are done, and install th Duracool, you are
> supposed wind up with both the R134a and the R12 valves. Not sure for
> why though.
>
>
> Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
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