----- Original Message -----
From:
Date: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 5:02 pm
Subject: Re: Oil pressure alarm problems problems--this is a good one for any one up for a challenge.
To: Kath Gene ,
Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM,

> Sounds like the either the wires to the switches are reversed or
> you have the wrong switch in place.
> The high pressure switch is located near the oil or water pump.
> The low pressure switch is between the push rod tubes, (center
> cam bearing) on the drivers side.
>
> th elow pressure switch is normally closed, circuit completed to
> ground when there is no oil pressure such as the engine is not
> running. The switch opens or disconnects the circuit when
> pressure rises above, 2.5 or 3.0 psi depending on switch. The
> light should have a steady blink with this switch closed.
>
> The high pressure switch is opposite. It is normally open and
> closes when the oil pressure is above ~12.7 psi, completing the
> circuit to ground. The Dynamic oil pressure control board looks
> at this switch above ~2,200 rpm. If the circuit is not complete,
> you should have both the flashing light and buzzer.
>
> The 2 wire connecter is a common source of failure here. It can
> look good and tight corrosion on the wires or connectors will
> often cause the false hi pressure alarm.
>
> Dennis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kath Gene
> Date: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 3:25 pm
> Subject: Oil pressure alarm problems problems--this is a good
> one for any one up for a challenge.
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>
> > I have searched the Archives and not found my exact problems.
> >
> >
> > History on the van:
> >
> >
> > I have an '86 camper with 110k miles. I recently bought it
> > after it had
> > been sitting for about 4 years. The only modifications that I
> > can see
> > is a different radio and speakers. Otherwise the Van is as it
> > came from
> > Volkswagen. This is a very pristine and extremely well cared
> > for van. I
> > have not actually checked the oil pressure although I have
> > absolutely no
> > signs of an oil pressure loss (no lifter noises, rough
> running, oil
> > light at start-up). I have a crappy (Fram) oil filter (temporarily)I
> > plan on changing the oil after I go through the first tank of
> > gas and
> > putting on a quality one. But I do have 20/50 oil in it.
> >
> >
> >
> > The issue:
> >
> > The problem I'm having sounds very ordinary but is getting
> more
> > and more
> > weird. As I start the engine and drive away EVERY time,
> > regardless of
> > engine temp, when the engine gets to about 2200 rpm's the oil
> > light and
> > buzzer go on and stay on until I restart the ignition. I have
> > no low
> > rpm flickering and it will not shut off no matter what the
> rpm's
> > and the
> > light ans buzzer NEVER turn off unless I restart the ignition.
> >
> >
> >
> > What I've done so far:
> >
> > I replaced the high side oil sender with a 0.9 bar unit
> > yesterday to
> > absolutely no change in the behavior. I also checked
> continuity from
> > the sending units to the plug on the back of the instrument
> > cluster and
> > found that I have continuity from the high pressure sender to the
> > cluster but not from the low pressure sender to the cluster. This
> > really throws me since I assumed that would turn the light and
> > buzzer on
> > immediately upon start-up since it appears it is not getting a
> > signal on
> > start-up. I also disconnected the plug that both sensors go through
> > (the one in the engine bay) and ran the engine--absolutely no
> > change in
> > the symptoms buzzer came on at 2200ish rpm's. Scratched my
> head and
> > butt.
> >
> >
> > Where I think I should go next:
> >
> > 1. I'm going to recheck the continuity between the senders and
> > the dash
> > connector.
> >
> > 2. Check the resistance to ground of both sending units to
> make sure
> > that they are sending a signal.
> >
> > 3. I am going to explore the idea of the oil pressure relief spring
> > that may be hanging open.
> >
> >
> > 4. I am going to explore the idea of some printed circuit
> > behind the
> > spedo and tach that can go bad but people have told me that
> they
> > rarelyfail.
> >
> >
> > 5 look into a possibility of a relay in the system somewhere
> > that is
> > failing.
> >
> >
> > Any ideas will not be ignored--please help!!!!
> >
> > Gene Kath
> >
>