See my comments below,
Dennis

----- Original Message -----
From: Kath Gene
Date: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 9:19 am
Subject: 2nd go through on Oil pressure alarm problems problems--this is a good one for any one up for a challenge.
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM

> Below is the original e-mail:
>
>
>
> What I did last night:
>
>
>
> I verified the continuity of the wires from the senders to the
> plug at
> the back of the instrument cluster and it was all good. None of the
> wires were switched. I then verified the resistance of the
> senders in
> operation and all was good. The resistance of the low pressure
> was high
> until I started the engine then it went to almost nothing. (THIS IS BACKWARDS OPERATION,  THE WRONG SWITCH)The high
> pressure switch worked backwards-it went from low resistance to very
> high resistance at about 2000rpm's. (I SAY YOU GOT THEM SWAPPED), I checked the corrosion on the
> connector in the instrument cluster and it was corroded. I
> cleaned it
> carefully and reassembled it to absolutely no change. I then checked
> the connections and continuity all the way to the printed
> circuit board
> on the back of the speedometer. All was good and I think I am
> now left
> with no alternative but to change that board. The other reason
> I am
> suspect of this is that when I disconnected the senders from the
> systemit still went off at about 2000rpm's and not on start-up
> as I thought it
> should. (THE HIGH PRESSURE SWITCH IS NOT MONITORED UNTIL ~2,200 RPM, DISCONECTING ALL SENSORS WILL RESULT IN THE BUZZER SOUNDING AT THAT RPM) Thanks for the advice so far it's been outstanding!!
>
>
>
> Let me know what you all think.
>
>
>
>
>
> Gene Kath
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I have searched the Archives and not found my exact problems.
>
>
>
>
>
> History on the van:
>
>
>
>
>
> I have an '86 camper with 110k miles. I recently bought it
> after it had
> been sitting for about 4 years. The only modifications that I
> can see
> is a different radio and speakers. Otherwise the Van is as it
> came from
> Volkswagen. This is a very pristine and extremely well cared
> for van. I
> have not actually checked the oil pressure although I have
> absolutely no
> signs of an oil pressure loss (no lifter noises, rough running, oil
> light at start-up). I have a crappy (Fram) oil filter (temporarily)I
> plan on changing the oil after I go through the first tank of
> gas and
> putting on a quality one. But I do have 20/50 oil in it.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The issue:
>
>
>
> The problem I'm having sounds very ordinary but is getting more
> and more
> weird. As I start the engine and drive away EVERY time,
> regardless of
> engine temp, when the engine gets to about 2200 rpm's the oil
> light and
> buzzer go on and stay on until I restart the ignition. I have
> no low
> rpm flickering and it will not shut off no matter what the rpm's
> and the
> light ans buzzer NEVER turn off unless I restart the ignition.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> What I've done so far:
>
>
>
> I replaced the high side oil sender with a 0.9 bar unit
> yesterday to
> absolutely no change in the behavior. I also checked continuity from
> the sending units to the plug on the back of the instrument
> cluster and
> found that I have continuity from the high pressure sender to the
> cluster but not from the low pressure sender to the cluster. This
> really throws me since I assumed that would turn the light and
> buzzer on
> immediately upon start-up since it appears it is not getting a
> signal on
> start-up. I also disconnected the plug that both sensors go through
> (the one in the engine bay) and ran the engine--absolutely no
> change in
> the symptoms buzzer came on at 2200ish rpm's. Scratched my head and
> butt.
>
>
>
>
>
> Where I think I should go next:
>
>
>
> 1. I'm going to recheck the continuity between the senders and
> the dash
> connector.
>
>
>
> 2. Check the resistance to ground of both sending units to make sure
> that they are sending a signal.
>
>
>
> 3. I am going to explore the idea of the oil pressure relief spring
> that may be hanging open.
>
>
>
>
>
> 4. I am going to explore the idea of some printed circuit
> behind the
> spedo and tach that can go bad but people have told me that they
> rarelyfail.
>
>
>
>
>
> 5 look into a possibility of a relay in the system somewhere
> that is
> failing.
>
>
>
>
>
> Any ideas will not be ignored--please help!!!!
>
>
>
> Gene Kath
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>