With the help of the group, I was able to un-plug my 2 idle stabilizer hook-ups and set my timing but....
(1) ? RE: B4 v. After timing marks on Harmonic Balancer:
I though my timing setting was 5 degrees ATDC (can someone verify this?).  My machine runs best when rear-most notch
is aligned, at idle, with the case.....any thoughts?>
-With engine running and timing light strobing (from the rear looking at the harm. balancer), I though BTDC 
was toward the dist. (at left) and ATDC was toward right, correct?  But when you rev. engine the timing marks
"advance" to the left.....so does that mean ATDC is at the right side of eng. compartment as described?
-My going from plugged to unplugged with the "engine stabilizer" made little difference in the running of my engine>  
What does that mean...it idles rough either way....I probably have an exhaust leak but it's been w/ me for years....
(2) My front driver's side turn signal is wet and now will not operate w/ new bulb?  The pass. side has a cracked 
lens and is OK.  Why does the light with the good lens get water logged and bad whereas the "open lens" is OK?

(3) Adjusting rear brakes without removing the rear drums?  I've just renewed my rear brakes and need to further 
adjust my rear brakes as my parking brake is still loose?  How to do this without removing the drum?  My adjustment
hole in the inside of the backing plate does not align well with the star adjuster?  Any thoughts?

(4) I recently R & R'd my rear wheel bearings and use the "360/my weight" theory to re-tighten the large rear axle nuts...
Should I now have someone with a industrial torque wrench set that final torque or is the above approach adequate?  
I ask because I did not get but 7 years out of my last set of rear bearing and I thought that pre-mature death might have
been from me over/under tightening those large rear axle nuts?  Again, any thoughts?

Larry 
Georgia