Your not gonna wanna know this but those symptoms indicate your engine case
is most likely good for a door stop or an anchor, not an engine. At least
not without a lot of machine work.

The main bearing bolts should have a washer with seal at the nut end. Even
without, oil leakage means the case is no longer held together at the center
and the center webs have moved most likely causing wear of the facing
surfaces. Tightening the case bolts will now distort the bearing saddles and
the case where the cylinders seat. What, cylinders leaking at the base!
Happened already. If the cylinders are leaking at the base from either case
distortion or loose studs, (another failure) you can bet the heads are
leaking on the top also. I have seen cases so badly distorted that the tops
of the cylinders were off by 1/8".

Not addressing these issues is the main reason most air cooled rebuilds
don't last.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Nathaniel Poole
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 8:55 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: <no subject>

I got my engine pulled today and have given it a good going over, and the
typical leaks are there-pushrod seals, rocker cover and flywheel. What I
didn't expect to find was apparent oil seepage from around one of the large
upper crankcase nuts (main engine bearing?) and quite a bit around the base
of the jugs, especially at the sides. I suppose the jug seals could be shot,
but I just bought this rig and the guy had just had the heads rebuilt and he
replaced the rings himself (I have the receipts). Is there something special
about how the bases of the cylinders have to be sealed? Do the large nuts
need to be sealed as well? My manual doesn't say anything about this.

Nathaniel