When one of my cylinders (#2) did that, I opted to take the cylinder the
rest of the way off then pull the wrist pin, remove the piston, and put
the piston back in the cylinder away from the engine.  Then, with the
hole for the wrist pin exposed, I reinstalled the piston to the rod and
seated the cylinder.

The reason I went this route, rather than try and put the cylinder back
on the piston in situ, is I already had a large ring squeezer that
wouldn't work inside the water jacket.  Making a wrist pin puller from
allthread, pipe, washers, and nuts was quick and easy and making a
"Special" tool to hold the rod level while I put the wrist pin back in
was as simple as bending an old coat hanger to do the job.

After removing the wrist pin (which was a bit stiff coming out) I
cleaned the pin with Naphtha (Ronsonol Lighter Fuel) and it then went in
and out of the hole slick as a whistle.  No "Deburring" was in order.

There are a number of posts in the archive that go into what was done to
install a cylinder over a piston without removing it from the water jacket.

Mike
Houlton, Maine
'84 GL 7 pass
'85 GL Westy

Jason Willenbrock wrote:
> Okay,
> so far I am finding that the hardest part of the head gasket job was
> getting
> past the corroded exhaust bolts.  However i fear my problems are just
> beginning.  I had one (#4) cylinder jug try to come off with the head
> (engine is in van).  I don't think it is all the way past the piston rings
> though, but it does not want to push back into the water jacket.  I di dget
> the head off, but I think the jug passed atleast one rng as it won't push
> back in.  So what am I facing now??  Do I pull the whole jug and
> compress th
> rings or will I be able to possibly get a handle on that one ring and bea
> ble to slide the jug back on??
> any tips here??  I know of guys who have re-ringed their pistons without
> pulling the engine, so I am glad I won't be doing that
> thanks
> jason
> 87 syncro westy
>
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