This is with the subie engine... Keep in mind there are a lot of
different ways to plumb the conversion, this is the way I did it.
The heater water goes from the manifold to the top of the burp tank
then out the bottom of the burp tank to the heaters, the heater
return water goes back in the engine at the thermostat (on the
bottom). On the heater return line I put one of those flushing
'tees'. I'm also using a radiator return line (the part between the
engine and the VW long lines that run under the van) that has a bleed
port on it just about level with the burp tank.

To refill it I opened the bleed port on the radiator return line,
took the cap off the burp tank & undid the radiator bleed bolt about half way.
I used one of those $5 electric drill operated pumps to pump the
coolant into the system thru the 'tee' in the heater return line.
I had the coolant in a 5 gal plastic bucket, (had to prime the pump)
and pumped it.
It filled the burp tank first, I put the cap on, then it came out the
radiator return bleed port, I closed that, then it started coming out
of the radiator bleed bolt & I closed that.
I was done. No problems on long test drive.
After the test 15 mile test drive and cool down I had to put a little
more in the expansion tank but that was it.

Rob
becida@comcast.net

At  1/1/2007 02:32 PM, neil wrote:
>Hey Rob.
>
>So what makes it easier/faster to bleed coolant and not have the
>dreaded bubbles?
>
>(at least after initial install)
>
>Cheers,
>
>Neil.
>
>
>
>On 1/1/07, Rob <becida@comcast.net> wrote:
>>At  1/1/2007 12:43 PM, neil wrote:
>>Bleeding cooling system **may** be more difficult on Subie and
>> >less so on an I4 VW.
>>
>>This is in the FWIW department but the last time (I had drained it to
>>change a couple of lines) I had to bleed my subie 2.2 it took me
>>about 15 min to fill and bleed in my '87 Vanagon.
>>
>>
>>
>>Rob
>>becida@comcast.net
>>
>>With a '91 Subaru 2.2 in an '87 Vanagon in western Washington.
>>