

| Subject: | Re: radiator bleeding valve |
| From: | Jake de Villiers |
| Date: | Fri, 12 Jan 2007 13:26:16 -0800 |
That's a great idea Bill! Thanks a lot. On 1/12/07, Bill Glenn <idahobill@gmail.com> wrote: > > Bleeding the air at the top of the radiator is easily done by loosening > the > bleeder bolt. The problem occurs when the air has been purged, followed > by > coolant coming out at the bleeder bolt, but you're not there to see it > because you're at the back of the van replacing the coolant in the > expansion tank as it's taken up by the water pump to fill the system. The > result is coolant down the front of the van and on the ground. Caught in > time, outdoors in summer, the clean-up is easily done with water from the > hose (though I don't want excess toxic coolant hosed into the gutter). > Outdoors in winter where I live, spraying water is a poor option, because > it will ice the driveway for weeks. Indoors in the garage, I don't want > coolant pouring on the floor and splashing around either, because a water > clean-up is not an option (too much stuff around). > > This has been my solution: Use an 8mm bolt with the same thread as the > bleeder bolt on the radiator, 25mm long having a full thread, (normally a > 13mm head if of euro origin). Place the bolt in a drill press vice, head > up, making sure the bolt is perfectly plumb when clamped in the vice. > Center punch the exact center of the head, then drill a 5/32" hole down > through the head, continuing all the way through the length of the bolt. > Remove the bolt from the drill press vice, and place it in the machinist's > vice, gripping it by the head. Using a hacksaw, cut the head off the bolt > and discard the head. Lightly dress the cut end of the bolt shank with a > file to de-burr it. Slip a 30" piece of very flexible 5/16" i.d. rubber > hose over half the length of the bolt threads, starting from the cut end. > (the flexible rubber is easier to work with when screwing the bolt into > the > radiator than vinyl hose would be). A clamp on the hose is not needed. > > When replacing the coolant in the Vanagon, temporarily remove the radiator > bleed bolt, and replace it with above bolt/rubber hose. Screw it in just > until the rubber hose makes contact with the radiator. Let the hose > dangle > into a clean five gallon bucket or drain pan. Fill the expansion tank > with > coolant and start the engine. Now just stand at the back of the van and > pour more coolant into the expansion tank as needed, increasing the revs > on > the motor to force the coolant through the system and up into the > radiator. No need to concern yourself about coolant coming out the > radiator, because it's being fully captured in the bucket. Allowing > coolant to exit the top of the radiator in this manner for several minutes > seems to purge much more air than when the bleeder bolt is closed down at > the first sign of coolant coming out. When done, the captured coolant in > the bucket is poured back into one of the original coolant bottles and > carried in the van and used to top off the expansion and overflow tanks if > needed. After one trip of moderate distance, the remainder of the air is > usually purged, and the coolant level stable, only needing to be topped > off > to the desired level. The bolt/hose combination, which cost less than a > dollar and fifteen minutes of my time, is rolled up and stored until next > time. > -- Jake 1984 Vanagon GL 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie" www.crescentbeachguitar.com
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