

| Subject: | Re: Rust by window seals |
| From: | Frank Condelli |
| Date: | Mon, 12 Feb 2007 07:19:29 EST |
In a message dated 11/02/2007 10:11:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: Hello again, vanagonauts, Last week I posted about removing window seals, and after several of your suggestions I grabbed a steak knife and went to it. That part was easy enough, and I've had some good suggestions about the rust repair, which falls into two camps, cold repair and welding/brazing. Given the location, I think I'll go with the cold repair - - POR-patch was suggested so I'm getting some of that. Now my question is, given the size of the holes, do I need to pop-rivet a piece of backing metal into the holes? And do I need to continue grinding to get all of the remaining rust pits out? The metal is getting rather thin in a couple of locations. I inspected the inside with a dental mirror and no rust appears on the inside of the panels. I finally got a couple of photos: http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t246/mrarachnid/rustedthrough.jpg http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t246/mrarachnid/Aftergrinding.jpg I guess it's not too bad, compared to the recent postings on East Coast rust! Gary, the way I have repaired these types of rust spots with holes as in your photos with POR-15 and Fiberglas matting. The patch will have to be done from the inside so will entail removing the paneling inside to do this. Follow the procedures for applying POR-15, apply a coat and lay on a piece of Fiberglas matting to cover the hole and surrounding metal for a bout 1" around. Let this get tacky all the while making sure the Fiberglas is well impregnated with the POR-15. Once it gets tacky apply a second coat of POR-15 and use POR-15 Patch to fill in from the outside, it does not have to be perfect. Then before it completely dries prime the outside with good automotive primer or let dry completely and use the POR-15 primer for use on cured POR-15 to bond to successive coats of paints. Once you have a good coat of primer then you can finish levelling off the imperfections on the outside using normal auto body fillers and surfaceres. I like to use epoxy finishing filler. POR-15 also makes a filler that works well in this instance. This method is the best by far that I have tried. Welding or brazing causes too much other damage that requires more clean up work and you still need to POR-15 both sides to get a good rust free repair. The POR-15ed patch will be as strong as welding the metal together when your done if done correctly Cheers, Frank Condelli Almonte, Ontario, Canada '87 Westy, '90 Carat, '87 Wolfsburg (Forsale) & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/trainsal.htm) ) Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley _Frank Condelli & Associates_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html) _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/stebro.htm) _BusFusion_ (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm) a VW Camper camping event, Almonte, ON, June 07 ~ 10, 2007
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