I'd start with this link:

http://wetwesties1.tripod.com/DometicRM182B.pdf

it's a manual for the Dometic 182b

A quick look at that, and the spare slightly newer model refer in my
basement, shows me that this isn't a complex job. At the very least,
one would have to have a basic understanding of  simple DC circuits,
and *possibly* know how to crimp on connectors.

FWIW, on viewing spare refer, i can see how at least one wire to
element has browned. An indicator that heat is starting to take its'
toll.

Not certain if combustion chamer has be opened for this job. Pretty
sure it doesn't.

Hope this helps,

Neil.

On 2/13/07, Tom Rowsell <sakow86@gmail.com> wrote:
> Is this 12v repair "written up" somewhere? for dummies like me?

> Tom
>
> On 2/13/07, Mark Drillock <drillock@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >
> > The other option is to repair the 12 volts fridge wiring so it works
> > well on 12 volts like it did when new.
> >
> > I did that and now it ices up driving on 12 volts like it does on
> > propane. Also I added a separate red led to the Westy kitchen cabinet by
> > the stove knobs that tells me when there is 12 volts on the 12 volt
> > element of the fridge. That way I can let it run on 12 volts even with
> > the engine off for those stops Frank talks about as well as tell it is
> > set to 12 volts even without opening the door to check and letting the
> > cold out. Also at the same time I ran test leads directly from the 12
> > volt element so I can measure exactly what voltage the element is really
> > getting. That is the real problem. The wiring degrades over 15-20 years
> > and the fridge stops cooling as well on 12 volts if it even cools at
> > all. The power wires as well as the fridge ground wire must be making
> > good connections or the voltage at the element will be too low for
> > decent cooling.
> >
> > Mark
> > cold beer is a good thing
> >
> >
> >
> >
>